Hermès (Audio)

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2024-02-19に共有
In luxury, there’s Hermès… and there’s everyone else. Stewarded by one French family over six generations, Hermès sells the absolute pinnacle of the French luxury dream. Loyal clients will wait years simply for the opportunity to buy one of the company’s flagship Birkin or Kelly bags. Unlike every other luxury brand, Hermès:

- Doesn’t increase supply to meet demand (hence the waitlists)
- Doesn’t loudly brand their products (IYKYK)
- Doesn’t do celebrity endorsements (stars buy their bags just like everyone else)
- Doesn’t even have a marketing department! (they barely advertise at all)

And yet everyone knows who they are and what they represent. But, despite all their iconoclasm, this is not a company that’s stood still for six generations. Unbeknownst to most, Hermès has completely reinvented itself at least three times in its 187-year history. Including most recently (and most dramatically) by the family’s current leaders, who responded to LVMH and Bernard Arnault’s 2010 takeover attempt by pursuing a radical strategy — scaling hand craftsmanship. And in the process they turned the company from a sleepy, ~$10B family enterprise into a $200B market cap European giant. Tune in for one incredible story!

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Visuals for:

Haut a Courroies, the “high-belted bag” to carry saddles and boots
images1.bonhams.com/image?src=Images/live/2014-06/…

Chaine d'ancre, “Chain of anchors”
assets.hermes.com/is/image/hermesproduct/chaine-d-…

Jeu des Omnibus et Dames blanches, “White ladies at play”
i.pinimg.com/originals/61/ac/84/61ac84114c03ee8f81…

Screen printing each color on a scarf individually
3.bp.blogspot.com/-QjlwKL9D4MU/UHLsucReiJI/AAAAAAA…

The Hermès oranges
blog.fashionphile.com/hermes-oranges/

Sac à Dépêches (today: the Kelly Bag)
www.hermes.com/us/en/content/106196-kelly/

Grace Kelly photo in LIFE Magaine
i.huffpost.com/gen/1457564/thumbs/o-GRACE-KELLY-BA…

Steps to sew a saddle stitch
2.bp.blogspot.com/-aaLc5iBboXo/V7yawv5AlsI/AAAAAAA…

The Birkin Bag
www.hermes.com/us/en/content/106191-birkin/

Pettit h
www.hermes.com/us/en/category/petit-h/#%7C

Links:

The saddle stitch (video)
   • Hermes - Craftsmanship  

Inside the Saddlery at the Faubourg
www.thedashingrider.com/hermes-inside-the-saddlery…

Hermès 2022 Annual Report
assets-finance.hermes.com/s3fs-public/node/pdf_fil…

Axel Dumas Interview
   • Axel Dumas, CEO of Hermès, at Les Mar...  

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コメント (21)
  • I’m here to turn the Acquired youtube comment section around! Ben and David, you are true business historians and are providing a valuable service to the WORLD, thank you for this episode and the countless others that I have learned from
  • Acquired FM is kinda the Hermes of podcast, such an insane level of dedication to the storytelling craft.
  • @peterkorsten
    Just absolutely totally amazing storytelling. You folks have redefined what great podcasts sound like. Depth, warmth, breadth, humor, connections: WOW! Thank you!
  • @BayArea_650
    Listened to the entire vid from start to finish, absolute gold! Thanks for all of the research that went into this one
  • My new absolute fav podcast! Seriously thank you for the hard work put into every video you do! Outstanding job
  • Guys you really need to have timestamps! Absolutely love the content and the research work put in. There is no way the avg listener is going to listen to 4 hours on one company (even one as interesting as Hermes) without jumping around chapters.
  • @ericcartmansh
    instant listen. This was spectacular! How far the show has come
  • @azndreamerboy
    1:20 reject manu efficiencies and scale, dedicated to craft, remained independent vs other luxury brand mergers 5:00 still do 85% production by hand in france 6:28 french revolution 7:50 Hermes and LVMH founders came from nothing 8:55 apprenticeship for outfitting horse (car equivalent) 10:14 elite ride horses like they do ferraris today - occasional 11:05 another coup in France under N III - modernize city - in old streets, can’t see nobility often - now you can with new venues, elevating importance of showing off status; status no longer about what class born into - modern idea can allow class shifts 14:44 key anchor client: wide of napoleon for carriages and luggage (LV) 15:55 key strength in routing brand in history and horse / carriage era 16:40 family apprenticeship through generations - made items with hands - diffs from LVMH 18:35 key differences vs LVMH: world class execs paired with world class designers; at H these are one and the same; apprentice as creative craftspeople 19:35 late 1800’s, added saddles - can now be seen in public 22:00 lands tsar of Russia as customer 22:54 add high belted bag to carry saddle and boots - looks like berkin and kelly but bigger - heritage of bags today 25:23 chase payment business 28:50 transition to auto age; met Ford, realizes importance of car 32:00 gets exclusive license for zipper makes first zipper products 34:45 bags for autos 35:22 impact of global travel in 1920’s - showing products 36:40 product is differentiator not brand 36:45 launch of handbag and clothes 37:45 adding by finding expert craftsmen (not organic) / brands and retailing / opening stores 39:00 stores not in metro cities but travel destinations with repeat clientele 40:00 different today, new stores to serve local clientele; new upper class client potential 41:11 key themes: craftsmanship, family and owners are chief artisans, connection to french status and new class mobility, modernization in auto era 41:50 importance of whimsical and art; warmth, soft welcoming in stores vs. other luxury stores 44:11 next gen thru son in law 44:36 playfulness of brand, bag redesign and bracelet intro 46:00 16 divisions 46:45 don’t push brand during sales - no bright color or iconic logo; quiet luxury and highest quality product made by single artisan; differs from other luxury and luxury today 47:50 today, adapted to market but still on lighter end of branding; consumers want to indicate hermes 48:45 silk scarves 1937; finest silks in world; whimsical design 49:48 biz mix 1937-1988 vs today - silk scarf run up to decline 50:49 queen elizabeth scarves 51:12 scarf production - source finest silk from owned farms in BR, 20 new designs per year and retire old to vault, 2 years to produce, screenprint each by hand (not digital) for each color, precision is perfect - no layer can be out of alignment, designs handetched; designer, engraved, colorist, weaver, printing and finishing - very hard to replicate, non transferable skill (no large scale at other companies); specialize in one small special piece of production 54:39 callbacks to history 55:10 new products during great depression - clients are unaffected - true today; recession resilient whereas LVMH taking a hit 56:20 origin of hermes orange box during WWII; hermes claims they own color - non-pantone code color; then created 5-6 other oranges for trends, whimsy nature 59:00 son in law adds silk ties; patterns less intricate and storied than scarves, but also hand screenprinted 59:52 added logo after WWII - callback to carriage and mobility; ground brand in history and differentiates from other brands
  • @Ten_2_Five
    My first podcast was the LVMH episode which I immediately followed with this one. You guys did an outstanding job on both. Well researched and informative and at the same time very entertaining. An interesting angle on the LVMH story involved the role of hedge funds and prop desks in the Gucci deal. Although the arbs did not "control" Gucci stock leading up to the close of the deal, they did hold a very significant percentage of the free float. Every time Gucci had numbers the earnings call had more hedge fund arbs on it than any other investor class and both Domenico and Tom did an excellent job of "managing" their relationship with the arbs as they knew that their interests were completely aligned (i.e. making sure Pinault would close). If Arnault had succeeded a lot of hedge funds and prop desks would have taken a big hit. There was also a lot of arb interest in Hermes while Arnault was making his moves but not to the same extent as in Gucci as an actual offer had never been made by LVMH. Keep up the great work. Would really enjoy an episode on Rolex.
  • This was my first episode and I have these comments. Great job on covering the history. In my opinion, Hermès and LV are not the same. Hermès is discreet, classic, understated elegance, and beautifully made bags, etc. The craftsmanship is excellent whereas LV is not as nicely made and is made in 1 of I believe 4 countries including US. LV is everywhere and screams a brand name. Who wants to advertise for a brand? Pas moi. My bags were curated from a US boutique and are not the Kelly or Birkin .. better to be discreet. In the 90s Hermès scarves were available at Neiman Marcus. Thank you.
  • Why you all release when I’m supposed to go to bed?! Bookmarked for tomorrow. 👍🏼
  • @DismasM
    Outstanding episode. As much as I enjoy the tech and VC stuff, these luxury episodes really resonate. Great to hear the shout outs to Derek and Reginald (worlds collide.) Was sad to hear David and Ben figured 95% of listeners might not know who Jane Birkin was. (and @3:48:40 --- she passed away in July of last year so she's pretty much cool with everything now....) Just a quibble, guys. Please keep up the good work.
  • This podcast is so important to my education. Appreciate the brand diversity
  • @Theboardbro
    This was such a great episode on so many levels. It was so interesting to learn about their business model and history!👏👏
  • @nitin276
    I came across this channel about 2 months ago and only through this episode did I learn that you guys put out just one episode every month. On one hand I am happy that I didn’t find this channel earlier and now I can binge all that I want 😊 On the other hand, I feel that after I am done with all episodes, I might have to stalk Ben and David, NSA style to figure out when the next episode will be coming out😂 Jk….i love you guys! I came across your channel 3 months after I had been obsessed on researching the Blackbird and YouTube recommended your Lockheed episode! As a former Amazonian, I listened to your amazon episodeS TWICE! Keep up the great work. If Hermes were a podcast company then you would be the top métier😅
  • @cap4life1
    I love this podcast! This one, the LV one and Costco were my faves.
  • I don’t miss a day a week :yt: kkuwan:yt: This show..😂😂😂😂