Is finger strength everything? An experiment...

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Publicado 2024-05-03

Todos los comentarios (21)
  • @MikeBoydClimbs
    Did Artur do better or worse than you expected? Comment below 👇
  • @Ididathing
    I hope artur keeps climbing. He is the next magnus ondra
  • @agario5161
    This guy skipped the first year of climbing and started out as an intermediate climber ,insane
  • @pirukiddingme1908
    Man is using heel hooks like a pro I refuse to believe he’s never done this before
  • @martinarcand1
    With people that can climb so well on their first try, the joy the next day is hearing them say “everything hurts”.
  • @static_motion
    Another factor which I think must play into Artur's astounding natural ability: body awareness from judo. He seems to intuitively understand how the placement of his centre of mass affects his ability to stay on the wall. The way he naturally rocks over into his feet to reach the next hold (something many novice climbers struggle with), the way he naturally tries to keep his hips close to the wall... Super interesting to watch. Hope he enjoyed it and maybe even sticks with it!
  • @gr.4380
    bro flashed a V5 in his first session while most people can't ever flash V5s after years of climbing
  • @damian9070
    This is the kind of person that does v7+ in their first year of climbing
  • @marijngrashoff30
    This is insane I have never seen someone climb this good on a first go it looks like he toe hooks for the purple finish that is a serious technique....wow
  • @RothBraun
    Be careful with injuries Artur! It's common for beginners with a lot of finger strength to full crimp everything and get hurt (and also it contributes the most to pump!). Try the 3 finger drag, open crimp, and half crimp grips.
  • @vidhoard
    17:05 The giggling while falling off the wall and the rolling after falling is too much 😂
  • @purklefluff
    coach here, commenting for the second time on one of your videos: wow! Artur, extremely impressive. highly unusual level to start at, and most of all it was so lovely to see you enjoying yourself looking ahead - i'd predict a sort of plateau after this mad dash to fairly high grades at the beginning. Don't let this dissuade you, I think you have one of the more competition-ready sets of skills (body awareness, rhythm, considerate movement) i've seen from a beginner and if you give some time to developing the finer details of climbing movement we could be seeing the start of an incredible and hopefully long and enjoyable climbing career (regardless of where you decide to take it) Mike - you're doing great too! It's been a delight to see your progress, and as a coach it's wonderful to see everyone's individual journey and their own puzzles to solve. i'm coming to Edinburgh this month (to head further north and ride the Badger Divide), I hope to hop onto a wall there for some fun. you ever climb there?
  • @mr.electro4674
    I’m about to go and try to send my first V4 in ~15 minutes and this guy just flashed one on his first time climbing 😭
  • @climbing_thomas
    what a champ, that attitude on the last boulder was amazing, just having fun even though he got constantly spewn off! that's what we love to see!
  • @sqealerr
    Really impressive. This isn't just pure finger strength. Arthur seemed to intuitively understand how his centre of gravity affects his ability to stay on the wall but also move between holds. On the red one he actually smears, dips in and drives from the smear to create a pendulum to transition to the next hold. Mike relies on static movement, scumming against the wall and doing the move statically. Then at the end he smears on the wall again to form a stable position intuitively, he figured this out faster than Mike. On top of that his ability to gauge, set up and time deadpoints, do rock-overs and his foot placement is remarkable for a first timer.
  • @gabejeppson2783
    As someone who has done judo and climbing for a couple years, I think they are more transferable skills than people would think at first. Grip strength, biomechanics/body positioning, balance, flexibility, explosive power, and endurance are all things essential to both sports
  • @AlexanderWigmore
    Crikey! I was really hoping this was going to be an undercover Magnus style video, at the end "Joke! By the way I've been climbing 3 years!", but no! Get this guy a gym membership!
  • @Jamieg8888
    I am in disbelief watching Artur climb things that I spent sessions on trying to get, hope I see him at block10 sending more routes!