Why Hangboarding is Being Replaced - 3 New Training Sessions

52,814
0
Published 2024-05-20
Over the past 2 years, the Lattice coaches have replaced fingerboard workouts with lifting edge workouts in over 30% of training plans... šŸ¤Æ

In this video we will go through:
āž”ļø Why you should and shouldnā€™t use a lifting edge over a fingerboard
āž”ļø Demonstrate how to lift correctly with the right form
āž”ļø Share some of the workouts you can use at home
āž”ļø Go through some of the specific workouts we use with the pros

Introducing the BRAND-NEW MXEdge Liftā€¦ Lattice Trainingā€™s latest development, our lifting block, features our most ergonomic edge, designed to maximise your finger strength training.

Over a period of time, the highly optimised loading of the fingers due to the ergonomic edge, will lead to compound gains, maximising the outcome of your training.

Shop Now: latticetraining.com/product/mxedge-lift/

A lifting edge is quickly becoming the essential training tool in every climberā€™s pack. Whether youā€™re warming up at the crag, or training finger strength at the gym, a lifting edge (a.k.a. lifting block, portable hangboard, no hang device, block pull) is an increasingly popular alternative to traditional hangboarding.

PULL HARDER ON OUR ONE-OF-A-KIND EDGE: Weā€™ve spent hundreds of hours researching ergonomics, usability and peak force production to develop a unique edge geometry that is not only comfier but lets you pull harder!

7 DIFFERENT GRIPS: the MXEdge Lift includes 3 edges, 3 pinches AND a cheeky mono so that ā€“ no matter the climb ā€“ the MXEdge can be specific to your training.

SIZE DOES MATTER: The MXEdge Lift comes in 2 SIZES, small and large! Choose a board that matches your ability, preferences, goals, and ā€“ most importantly ā€“ hand size!

Shop Now: latticetraining.com/product/mxedge-lift/

0:00 - Intro
0:39 - Benefit 1
0:58 - Benefit 2
1:18 - Benefit 3
1:30 - Benefit 4
2:03 - Limitation 1
2:13 - Limitation 2
2:30 - Lifting Form
4:43 - Types of Sessions
5:56 - Max Holds
6:53 - Ollie Flips You Off
8:08 - Edge Lifts
9:11 - Density Holds
11:05 - MX Edge Design
13:00 - Pro Tip 1
13:43 - Pro Tip 2
14:49 - Pro Tip 3


BRAND-NEW TRAINING COURSE: 'A Climbers Guide to Training' šŸ¤“ Book your place now!
latticetraining.com/product/a-climbers-guide-to-trā€¦

COMING SOON: Flexibility Deep Dive Course šŸ¤ø Register your interest now! latticetraining.com/product/flexibility-deep-dive-ā€¦

TRY OUR FREE ASSESSMENTS šŸ’Ŗ
latticetraining.com/assessments/

CUSTOMISED TRAINING PLANS āœ… Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: latticetraining.com/plans/

SPECIALIST EQUIPMENTšŸ‘‰ Check out the Lattice Shop for world leading training products:
latticetraining.com/product-category/products/

All Comments (21)
  • @davidk3567
    Why did everyone wake up and choose violence? Its a pick up edge and has become very popular. All of the FREE info in this video is valuable, especially for you guys because you appear to not know anything about pick up edges. They are also great for warming up outdoors. You dont need weights, you can use a loading pin and stand on it or wrap it around your foot, or just use weights at the gym
  • @AlmightyUniden
    I 100% agree with this. This has been the biggest game changer to fix my wrist issues. Precise control over the weight is the bread and butter of any progressive training!
  • @plixplux
    Solid video. Have had a block lying around for a while now but never started using it, but will now. Cheers!
  • @AceRanger20
    Lattice has been recommending no hangs for a while, so this isnā€™t something they are suddenly promoting and saying they believe in because they are releasing a product. They seem to be releasing a product because itā€™s something they believe in. I bought a no hang block back in December to help rehab finger injuries back to where my strength should be. It has been fantastic for my finger strength and getting them back in shape. I hate doing any type of finger work, but it does work. You have to put some effort into coordinating it with your kinetic chain for hanging, but that has partially been solved by doing some regular hangboard hangs every so often. The density hangs in particular have been amazing for rehab and recovery, and the ability to control the weight so well reduces chance of further injury while going through rehab exercises. Iā€™ve never been able to hold bodyweight on 20mm hangboard edge because of how many finger injuries Iā€™ve had, and I trained to finally do it on my no hang block. Got to about 47.5% bodyweight per hand on the 20mm and decided to try hangboard to see if it made a difference. First attempt was 1 sec, which I was happy with. Few more attempts that same day, and I got up to 5 seconds of hang time and I think it was just getting my fingers to work properly with my back in the hanging position.
  • nice video thanks guys! I have used this kind of training with my lattice plan (to train a weak grip type) and it was game changing for me
  • @davidk3567
    Honestly speaking this looks really great and I can tell lattice has put a lot of thought into this one. Theres nothing like this out in the market, combining the pick up edge, the new trend of ergonomic edges, plus multiple edge sizes. I also like the edge sizes chosen, as well as the neutral orientation as the tension block is either incut or awkwardly neutral, either causing one to feel like theyd dry fire or the weight distribution is off causing possible tweaks when lifting heavy. Great and innovative product!
  • Great video. Thanks Lattice. Iā€™ve been curious about this method of finger training for a while and so I appreciate you have shared all this info in a free and concise way šŸ‘
  • The cynicism of some of the comments here is astounding. Is it so unbelievable that lattice are making a pick up style training tool because they believe in it rather than touting they believe in it because they just made a tool? Not to mention they gave plenty of very good supporting arguments for pick up training and it is a general trend in the climbing training community for good reason. Honestly, i'd say save your distrust and cynicism for where it matters (conglomerates like Unilever and tech giants maybe) and if you can't see that a company like lattice is run for the passion and love of their work then maybe you need to reassess your trust issues
  • Ollie flips you off šŸ˜‚ This is a really helpful video. I already have a tension block, but some of the routines and advice here are new to me. So thanks for that.
  • @stefanp2883
    Thank you for this video! I've bought a pair of "mobile hangboards" and used them by hanging it to my pullup bar, later I bought a lifting pin and use them in combination for a few months now. Unfurtunately my wrists are injured for a few months now (becoming better and better slowly), but with weights on the lifting pin the load is very good controllable so I was able to do lifts without overdoing it. I didn't follow a strict traning plan or schedule for my fingertraining yet, think I will use the information in this video for orientation in the future.
  • my feedback: the info in the video is really useful (i use a tension block). it doesn't feel too sales pitchy even though showcasing a new product. I just think the title should be "Why Hanboarding is being replaced in our training programmes - 3 new training sessions", it seems hyperbolic to me to say it's being replaced entirely, it isn't. What Ollie says in the video is clear, the title isn't in my opinion. Perhaps a bit pedantic but I think these subtle changes might not get the negative responses you see below.
  • @garronfish8227
    I really enjoy these. I like the the one finger option. I took a long time to build up the kgs. But I like doing sloper training on a hangboard.
  • @LuisDiaz-fj2em
    I'm slowly going to switch to a block, the hardest part is acquiring weights for home. I've seen gains with weighted hangs, but also overloaded myself and was out for a few months. I now do hangs on the beastmaker2k, but only body weight. Slowly I've been working to pockets and mono hangs, so the block is definitely a great tool to expedite the process. I like the idea of slowly loading an injured finger as well. Different tools for different goals!
  • @MrWhatev4r
    Iā€™ve completely replaced all my hangboard finger warm up and training exercises to a hang block even before they released this video. To those saying the title is click baity donā€™t have any long term experience switching over to solely hang blocks. I use the tension block and unleveled edge so all you guys getting butthurt by their ā€œsales pitchā€ donā€™t know any better on the benefits of these hangblocks over hangboards
  • @oleshikaru
    i don't have a hangboard where i live now so i got one of these some months ago. i've mostly just attached a resistance band to it instead of weight and it has helped a LOT in having my fingers feel strong and healthy for climbing. its sort of a variation of the Emil Abrahamsson's no hang routine. Works for me anyway.
  • @Test-jj4to
    Thanks for the great video. How should we structure this workout in our week ? Same day of climbing and before climbing? How many times per week ? (for maxhangs for example).
  • @philleng480
    Excellent idea - I fingerboard, but work away 3 days a week - and then I cant. This will keep me going. Thank you.
  • @Theaddekalk
    as a warm up i use things like that. i do use the hangboard and edges if i train in in the gym or board, but i have an hangboard with me when climbing outside also jsut to wamr up and do some ppullups. both are great for different reasons
  • Could you plz provide pics of how to use that in the 3 advertised pinching seizes? For my big hands it seems nearly impossible to pinch it and not have the tips of my fingers around the edges. Other than that the block looks good. And lifting has been a part of my training for a while now. And I can highly recommend it.
  • If I want to improve a specific grip position with this tool, like a three-finger pocket, how do you recommend I get started? With max hangs, repeaters or long hangs? Thank you!