Full Shop Air Compressor Setup

Go to your local farm supply store and grab a 1/2" cattle stall mat. It is solid vulcanized rubber. Anyway, put a piece of that under your compressor. It will completely eliminate all vibration into the floor, I don't even need to bolt mine down, the added friction from the rubber holds it in place.

Awesome idea! but….. I would move the black stopper on the reel… just in case you forget and let go and it zips back to the rafter. I would suggest just under full arms reach… easy to reach yet high enough so as to not bump your head on the end 👍🏼

I would recommend a pressure regulator at each drop. 1) Convenience. You won't have to go back to the compressor each time to adjust. 2) Simultaneous. More than one tool can be used at the same time.

At 5:00, the left side is a regulator with a moisture filter, the right side is a lubricator which probably doesn't have any oil in it. Most tools need oil, but some tools absolutely don't (paint guns for example). I'd recommend adding service units to all your outputs to reduce pressure drops and moisture. Put 2 quick connects on them, one before and one after the lubricator.

Nice setup! Only thing I'd maybe consider is moving that moisture filter at the end of a 25ft length of hose. The moisture as you draw air from the tank won't condense fast enough for that water filter to absorb it.

We have that tubing running air at my work. I’ve installed so much of it, my advice is to use a dawn/water mixture to lube the o-rings when slipping the tubing onto the fittings. You risk tearing the o-rings when tightening.

Very fun! I plumbed my small woodshop in using a similar looking kit; much smaller diameter though. In my experience, all QD connections leak to some degree. Eliminate them wherever possible. Ideally, you'll only have the quick disconnect at the tool/hose connection, and everything else will be screwed in with teflon. I also put in a couple strategically placed valves in my system, so that I can work on this section or that without having to blow down the entire system.

Great video! If I would recommend anything I would put the moisture filter away from the tank 25 feet to 30 feet because the moisture won’t be able to be filtered closer than that. That is if you will be using it for paint.

What we did to straighten the hose; we took two 2x4’s about 4’ long and we cut a dado into each to make a channel to run the hose through. Then we pulled the entire coil of hose through it twice to straighten it. Then we tied one end of the hose to the shop wall (150ft shop) and tied the other to our tractor and stretched the hose over night. The result was nearly a perfectly straight hose to hang in the shop. Maybe overkill :)

Yeah with a test tomorrow this sounds more important to me

Awesome video Bob! You actually inspired me to get into woodworking, I'm going to design and build a small bench for our balcony. Also, a tip for you car project: get a powdercoat machine and a oven for that. Powdercoating is super easy and you can really bring old parts back to life with an indestructible coating. My dad and I have been working on motorcycles a long time together and this was a real game changer. It's not super expensive, and trust me, you'll get back your investment easy once you try it, we basically powdercoat everything from metal or aluminum that fits into our oven. Perfect for brackets and all that other small and medium sized stuff. I can't wait till the next video, keep up the good work guys!

This video is a must-watch if you want to tackle this type of project. I just completed the same project in my garage with a similar kit and I love it. A couple of additional points that might also be helpful: Draw up a plan of how you want to route the air lines and determine what fittings you need. I found it was actually a better deal to do direct to the manufacturer's website and order each individual component vs buying the generic kit. Teflon tape and pipe thread sealant are both required when making metal-to-metal connections: The teflon tape allows the connect the snug up, but the pipe thread sealant is what actually makes the connection airtight under pressure. All of the other details provided in this video about thread size, water vapor management, and compressor basics are spot on. I spent so much time researching this and these guys nailed it in a 15min video

I have the exact same piping system in my garage. Love it. Of course I have a lot of battery operated tools so things like sanders, impact guns, and nailers don't get much use these days. Mine is mostly used for blowing dust/clean up, painting, and the air hammer for demo work. Tip: the nicer flexible rubber hoses are sweet, but they rot out relatively quickly. This goes double for the one on the reel. Check them before you get knee deep into a project and find yourself with a half dozen leaks.

This oddly-specific niche video is absolutely invaluable to me! I took over a custom frame shop and inherited their compressor system - but I have NO idea what I'm looking at. I know how to turn it on and how to use it but if something were to go wrong, I would have absolutely no clue where to start. Watching this (and following the discourse in the comments) has helped me to identify basic parts of their system and to understand what they are, what they do, and why they are where they are. Amazing content! 👏

One small addition I made on my system is a 6" to 8" 'drip leg' between the multi-port block and the drain valve shown @ 8:26. This allows any water (condensate) that accumulates to fall below the outlet on the front face of the block. In the system shown in this video, any condensate just accumulates right AT the quick disconnect outlet. No Bueno friends! Great video and thanks!

I installed a few largge air systems in the states back in the mid 80s. We used pvc pipe joined with the standard blue pvc glue. It is rated at over 400 psi - more than adequate for a suply like your compressor with a 175 psi maximum. We ran a ring around the workshop at below ceiling height - a ring so that there is no pressure drop at the far end of the pipe. All draw off points exited from the TOP of the ring then back down to the regulator / air draw off points which had a valve at the lowest point to drain moisture. Drops were taken from over the top so that moisture wouldn't run down to where air was being drawn. The ring also had a deliberate low point where a bleed valve was located to drain any moisture from the ring. I had a mechanics shop in Australia for about 10 years and all the air to the shop was supplied in pvc pipes using the same setup. There were a couple of failed joints in the first week or so but after they were fixed it never leaked again.

Bob, a suggestion as made to me by my Father I Law (Former Race car engine engineer) is to leave the drain open slightly at ALL times. This prevents ANY moisture from accumulating at the bottom of the air tank at any time. It will hiss as a small amount of air leaks while the system is in use, but if you are using your air tools you probably won’t be able to hear it. The compressor will be cycling as air is used, so as long as the valve is only open a small amount the “leak” won’t even be noticed. If you can barely hear the hiss the valve is opened enough.

My tip is that when you measure know that the size of the holes on your fittings will be much bigger than the parts name because of the npt system. If the hole actually measures 1/2” then it’ll be probably a 1/4” npt, I recommend looking up a chart so you’re not confused and buy the wrong parts

In case of mishaps, quick disconnects should always be pointed down. You do not want anything blown back at you at full pressure.

Very cool. My former boss did pvc and it worked fine till I tripped on a hose and broke off the pvc at the connector. I disappeared into a cloud of dust lol. Next version was black pipe and that worked well. This looks nice and easy. Thanks!