6.9 & 7.3 idi ford international (fuel filter housing explained)

Very, very useful information. And you are correct in that information on the idi is difficult to find. Everything defaults to power stroke. Keep sharing your discoveries. And thank you for NAMING all of the components along the way!

Nice work, very straightforward explanation of how these fuel systems work. I cannot tell you how many times I've seen that recirculation system plugged up because instead of fixing a leaky hose somebody decided to just delete it. I love these old IDI international motors, they are so robust, and if taking care of will literally run forever!

This was very informative. I got a free vehicle with a 7.3 IDI and someone has cut and spliced everything and I don't know what goes to what or what was deleted that should not have been. This is the first video I have found that talks about what it supposed to look like before someone gets in there and starts modifying it.

Non very popular info since not many own a old truck anymore...but man when you need it what a valuable video to find. Many thanks.

Thank you , I just picked up a 96 F350 , and it also has been butchered , This helped alot . The fuel bowl filter was yellow , saturated with water , lots of cut wires . etc

Thanks you're good at explaining things and love the intro

Great video; posterity would GREATLY appreciate similar content for other engine bay components. Explaining all the hookups for a component makes diagnostics and repairs much easier to understand. Even a basic "this is X component, it does Y" overview of the major engine components would be very helpful. Very few 'anatomy' diagrams out there that I can find. Maybe then I'd be able to figure out what the dozen orphaned electrical connectors or capped vacuum lines in my truck originally did. Perhaps the filter head on my 85 has been replaced, since it lacks all those wires, and only has a single inlet, outlet, and Schrader valve. No provision for a return fitting, and the front/passenger/Cyl1 return line is plumbed to that tiny nipple on the filter head outlet. No return connection or tee on the front/driver/Cyl2 return rail on the opposite side of the bay. Also, the filter itself is the simple can type that doesn't have a water drain or end cap of any sort (though I still have a dash light for water, somehow). If the 5psi supply to the booster pump is higher than the return pressure (near ambient if it terminates at the tank), then fuel will flow through that tiny nipple to the tank. The small nipple size/orifice restricts this flow, effectively bleeding a small volume from the filter output, at the 12:00 position that air will tend to collect. Seems like my setup is more primitive than yours, while functioning the same (with fewer features).

Thank you very much for your time and valuable knowledge.

Very simple explanation and to the point . Great Video .

That nipple on your fuel line is the bleed line that helps bleed air from the system. Cuts down on how long you have to crank when changing filter.

Excellent content thanks for all your hard work

Thanks for the tutorial, very helpful !!!

Hey Mr. Chaos You did a great job explaining all that so that tells me you are the man to ask questions to . LOL I Just bought a 1990 F350 crew cab 7.3 It's easier for me to just say every thing is wrong with it. LOL It set for about 10 years or longer I had it running and it was running good. Then the weather got cold and it wouldn't start any more. Glow plugs not working and air leak up top some place. Plugs melted and on and on. But if you go to 8:20 on your video and pause it you will see a little black square thing right in line with the spring on the accelerator. About the size of a relay. it has 2 black wires and 2 red wires going to it. Mine is melted and I have no idea what it's called to try and buy a new on , It's so much easier when you know what it's called. If you can help me with this I would appreciate it.

Lad to have found your video, about to tear into my new to me '85 F250 6.9l IDI I know it's been tinkered with pretty heavily and I want to put it back to as close to factory as possible.

Ford actually has a tsb to remove the return to the filter head. It would normally have a small orifice fitting normally. But it will also cause your filter to drain out if you have a problem with the injector returns. Plenty of info on these trucks if you know where to look.

Great video, thanks for the info, very very helpful!

V.NICE JOB ... Appreciate You..

Ive got an 88 f350 7.3idi and my fuel filter light just started coming on when i go over 2k rpms or more. Changed out my fuel filter, cleaned my facet lift pump and still the light comes on and off. Truck runs perfect. Im thinking its that fuel filter vacuum indicator switch that you had explained in this video. Mine could be going bad.

thanks for this video man

I need the whole housing + the Schrader valve! I learned a lesson from changing the F/Ftr... Remove S-Valve first! MINE is Broke