Predator 3500 Inverter Generator | Spark Plug, Air Filter Change and Canister Delete

Published 2023-04-12
In this episode we do some maintenance on the good ole Harbor Freight Generator. Spark Plug, Air filter and the charcoal canister delete. The verdict is still out on if the delete actually improves the efficiency and run time.

I am puzzled about the little tube that looks to supply all the air intake for this machine.

Some other upgrades/maintenance are coming soon, including an oil change, 30amp plug switch-a-round -- ( I should trademark that) and few simple improvements you can make in order to

Make YOUR generator great again!




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All Comments (15)
  • @sc5015
    The charcoal canister isn't vented to open air. The small line coming from the engine area is the vent from the gas tank. It loops down and up in the event some fuel gets into the gas tank vent, and why you need to be careful to not overfill the tank. When the generator fuel gets warm, either radiant warmed from the engine or just ambient temp/sun exposure, it creates more fuel vapor. That fuel vapor runs in the small hose into the charcoal canister where activated charcoal adsorbs the fuel vapors when the engine is not running. When the engine is running, the nipple on the right of the canister allows air to enter the canister and is pulled into the air filter housing by negative air pressure being generated as the motor draws in air. This air intake cools the charcoal material causing it to release the gas vapors it collected, the vapors are sucked into the engine and burned as part of the combustion process. When the fuel tank is overfilled, fuel is splashed around by high G forces, or the generator tiled too far, fuel can enter the vapor recovery line and wet the charcoal. When trying to start the generator under those conditions, it will run too rich, running rough or not at all depending on the severity of the fuel overflow. Once enough fuel has evaporated from the vapor recovery system, the generator will return to normal operation. The canister delete is fine and all, Im not preaching about the environment. The primary issue with removing the canister is you now have fuel just sitting in the now plugged vapor recovery system, especially if you top off the tank. That fuel is just pooled in the vapor system and ready to start a fire if your plugging process fails. Just food for thought.
  • @TheRoadSMITHS
    You should get red hats that say MMGGA with your logo. Great conversation starter. I need to tune mine up as well.
  • @brucebalfour8042
    Couple quick thoughts...1) the filter is meant to be oiled with light oil not replaced2) There are more than sufficient holes in the back of the airbox3) The right side of the charcoal cannister is open to air and not connected to anything4) You MUST block off all the holes on the airbox as the holes allow direct path to bypass air filter5) the motor oil comes from the crankcase vent coming off the OHV cover and sends oily mist directly into the carburetor for emissions, same as PCV valve on car 6) the hose that runs from the port marked T on the cannister should be run directly out the bottom of the generator. Excess fuel will drain out and air will flow into the tank otherwise it will not run unless the fuel cap is open7) consider gluing the adapter directly to the panel instead of flipping it. On mine I can't envision any scenario where I would run the generator without that adapter.8) The reason folks are replacing the spark plug to a higher temperature is because the plugs are fouling HOWEVER when you delete the cannister the engine no longer runs rich and does not foul the plug. STAY with the same temperature range plug. The NGK BR6 is way too hot a plug the BR7 or stick. I have no idea what the temperature range is for the E3 plug you are using but when you check it look for signs of heat damage to the electrode
  • @tomwest76
    Great work!! Now take that old spark plug to Lowes and get you a deep well socket that will work with it. :)
  • @josephmichel5745
    That is not a problem,it is recommended to moisten the filter in motor oil before installation.
  • @drrok4603
    The air filter housing has additional air intake in it on the bottom of the housing base. The part that does not come out.
  • Replace the plug with an NGK plug. Wayyyy better! There are a couple different ones that work.
  • @TheMonkdad
    I have one that I bought from a neighbor who did the break-in as if his life depended on it. I’ve had it for about 4 years and it works flawlessly. I always use stabil for the final run then run it dry. This time I had it winter over in my woodworking shop for a year. I pulled it out, gassed it up with about 3 month old gas. It started on the first pull and I ran it for about 15 minutes. I had No compressed air so I washed it just to get the dust off (not forcefully) now it’s incredibly difficult to start or will only run on start. The minute I put it on run it dies. I changed the fuel to fresh. I changed the spark plug. I examined the air filter and it’s dry and looks brand new. Any idea what’s going on? BTW I can get it running fine after I take all the panels off and reinstall but then it’s hard to start again.
  • What did you find out about the air box being sealed besides going the the charcoal filter? What is the mod for that?
  • @gringoreno
    These generator are ify I have worked on 3 new ones S soon as you plug in they quit over load or ground fault toldcustomsr totaled it back I have 2000 watt yahama I plug in tta.d it works fine you get what you pay for
  • @gringoreno
    I think something is not right with their ground system
  • @sunnybones8080
    Made in China, boo?? This generator that you have is made in China! 😂