Do This Before Giving a Painting to Your Client!

I don't put the certificate on the backing, but directly on the back of the picture (I'm doing photographs, not paintings though). The certificate is meant to certify the authenticity of the picture for decades to come and should not be removable from it, also I don't trust the owners to keep the original backing all the time. If the buyer wishes it, I cut a window in the backing where the certificate is. Additionally, in this times and date, I number my certificates and take a picture of the photograph and the certificate side by side and add it to my database of work sold. With this I can proof the authenticity of the certificate anytime it is challenged - or proof along the consecutive order of listed numbers in the database that a certificate is illegitimate. I'm not an internationally known artist who might actually profit from that, but it is satisfying to do such a thing at the highest possible standard, especially since it costs close to nothing, just a little time.

I was married to an artist and picture framer for 14 years, meaning I had my own professional framer. My only cost was materials. After we separated, I was shocked when I took something to be custom-framed & found the frame would cost twice what I was planning to ask for the painting. I ended up having it matted to fit a standard frame. Then I taught myself how to cut mats, bought a shrink wrapper, and purchased frames in standard sizes on line. I also bought UV protective glass from a frame supplier where I bought my matboard & occasionally moulding. It came in packages of 10 or 20 sheets & was less expensive than having it cut individually. (Every time I tried cutting glass myself, I either broke it or got rough edges.) They also sell hangers that I love. They go in the corners, are triangular with saw-teeth. Because there are 2, the nails don’t even have to be level to hang it levelly. The frame never shifts or gets out of level and the frame doesn’t hang away from the wall. They come in 2 versions, one for wooden frames & one that fits the slots of metal section frames. The easiest frames are metal section frames, which mostly have simple clean lines that don’t detract from the image. I generally stick to black, gold, or silver, but they come in many styles & colors. Now, I always create art that fits standard-sized frames. That way I can either buy a fairly inexpensive frame for the customer or the client can buy a reasonably-priced frame online or at a store (in the U.S.) such as Michael’s or Walmart that will fit. For work on paper, I create art that fits standard-sized mats. I usually sell the work matted in shrink-wrap, but will provide a frame if wanted. Also, I occasionally buy a cheap but sturdy frame in good condition at a yard sale or at a 2nd-hand shop and then create something to fit.

I always had a little blurb about the copyright, so they don't think it's their image now and can make note cards or something. I learned a different way to do the back, to use brown kraft paper and double sided special tape, the paper covered the whole back. Great that you show artists how to present their painting after it's done so it looks professional.

I add an inventory number that looks like a code, so it might be 344-A-24. That would be my 344th piece, A for January, 24 for the year. And I also physically sign the side or back of the canvas where it can’t ever bleed through. If a panel, sign the back, with a permanent marker.

A family friend is an artist. In the early days starting out he learned how to build frames and cut mats to save money and maximize his profits. Even after all his years of success and accomplishments he still does his own framing.

May I share a couple of tips in the hope it will be of some help and inspiration. Firstly, I'd like to suggest a dust free environment to house the painting when drying the varnish. For small paintings, I often use a Tupperware tub and place it upside-down over the painting. It helps to drill some holes on the bottom of the tub, in order to help with airflow. Otherwise, for larger projects, I suggest building a box-frame and surround it with clear plastic and install a door at the front. Since most of my paintings don't exceed more than 3 feet in height, my frame is a 3 x 3 foot square and can accommodate most of my work. On the odd occasion I make anything larger, I risk it. The reason why I started using this method had to do with laying out a painting once to dry and despite being careful (with no pets), a clear amount of dust had settled. So, I adopted this method, which ensured I was safe, but not sorry. My second suggestion has to with the string for hanging the painting. Perhaps you could tie your bow more to the left or right of the painting. Having the knot in the centre could prove problematic when hanging the painting because the knot can get in the way when hanging the painting and you wish to balance it. This means if you want to get to the other side of the knot you must remove the painting and rehang it. If the knot is placed to the side, it eliminates this issue effectively. Guess I'm too much of a perfectionist and wish to avoid any little issues a client may have with my work. Hope this helps. Love the painting. Clearly, you're a talented artist. :hand-purple-blue-peace:

I've been looking at having a Stamp made with my logo and name, a maker's mark, to stamp the back of my handmade panels,I will now include the Certificate of Authenticity info with it. Brilliant, thank you.

Might be a good idea to photograph all your works before they leave your studio if you don’t already do that. Handy for future use in perhaps a book or promo piece for instance. 🤔 I enjoyed the video. Thanks 👍🏻🙂

I would suggest two certificates, one affixed to the back of the panel or canvas the other to back of the frame.

This is not only good advice, its one of the most important for artists. Thank you.

When framing use a soft cloth to lay down on your table first so you do not scratch the frame. Very nice video also.

I like Walmart for frames. I can get a 16x20 in frame for $13 and then you can spray paint it and put texture on it and all sorts of stuff and it's really a lot of fun too. And you could be totally creative about the color you use. I really am kind of into gold and silver but I will put other colors on it too and maybe splatter some spray paint. The frame can be just as much fun as the picture

I always clean the glass with Isopropyl alcohol and give it time to dry. I also wear lint free gloves when handling anything so I don’t leave finger prints on the glass or picture. Great video by the way

I think it would be good to do a video about copy writing artwork, there are a lot of people around that are more than happy to steal and rip off artists creations. Thanks for your video, very interesting.

For framing tape use a credit card to work it into the corners then lay the card across the tape and pull up from one side like you're tearing it, it will tear along the line created by the card. Use an awl to start your screw holes. Making it loose will not cause the painting to hang further from the wall but it should be loose enough and the anchor points high enough that a 120° slack will bring it almost to the middle of the top of the frame. This makes it easy to hang, easy to center, and having it hang close to the top means that if you're hanging it underneath another frame, like it might in a gallery it's easy to judge the distance you need to put the mount. I also use picture wire, but string is fine. 17 years art restoration and framing. 29 years as an artist

Very good to know. Even though I’ve only sold two paintings ( and one of those was to my son who insisted on paying money into my account for it!😂) you never know what commissions might come my way. Still even for home and friends this is good practice.

Good info about labeling a painting in a frame. I like to place paint layer and color info directly on the backside of the painting with a soft grahite pencil. The graphite can be sealed in and will be detectable forever. The use of a gimlet helps in starting the screws. The gimlet makes it easier to keep the screw straight.

I had no idea there was such a thing as "framers tape". Thank you for the tip!

I find retouch varnish gives a lower gloss, helps protect the painting, dries fast and helps intensify colours. Your painting is lovely and you framed it well.

The big takeaway from this is the fabulous advice of including information about the painting with the painting. That is super helpful to collectors and painting conservators. However, I’d never use that varnish. It contains damar which yellows, darkens, and gets brittle over time. Conservators strongly recommend against any damar-based varnishes. Instead, wait until the thickest part of your painting won’t budge under fingernail pressure then apply a modern synthetic varnish like Gamblin’s Gamvar. Gamvar is permanent varnish but is easily removable with mild odorless mineral spirits which has little to no effect on a fully oxidized oil paint film. Happy painting!