Fastest Way Recap Game Gear Capacitor Replacement - RetroSix

Excellent video... However, around 7:45 a Q9 files off... Also R52 and R51 are displaced in 8:03. I agree though it is a whole lot faster. In my last GG recap, I took the time to remove very carefully the caps without breaking the pads. Then I cleaned the old solder with wick to leave all pads pristine and retined and put ALL caps carefully... took me more than two hours... So knowing how to do it fast is really nice.

I am starting to collect old consoles and do repairs as a hobby. I have been watching your videos and would just like to say thank you for the amazing content! I have just bought a broken game gear from ebay and I will be using your videos and guides to see if i can get it going. If I can then a replacement screen will be next. Thanks for the detailed information.

did anyone else see the little black cap blow away or was that just me? 🤔

I'll have to give this a try. 1st time recapping a game gear too me 4 hrs.. You're a wizard!

Great stuff! I am excited to have a station with a hot air machine and kitted out with good gear for soldering one day

i always just use the wiggle method - never have broke a trace since doing it that way, legs come off as i always clean the pads before putting on new cap.

I just got my gg back from my mother and it didn't work with power. All points to needing capacitors. Glad I came across some good online tutorials on this!

I just tried your heatgun trick for removing the screen - SO easy, thanks for the great tip!

Would be great if you could add the list of caps that are not needed for the clean screen to the install guide on the wiki.

7:45 bye bye diode))

1:30 Me yelling Blu Tac at the screen repeatedly. :D

This was a great video, I’m trying to do a similar project but am new to soldering and hot air guns. What temps and fan speeds should I use when desoldering?

This may be a silly question but why remove the screen and the bulb if you are only recapping the device?

Thanks! Are you shure about ceramic cap instead of electrolytic?

It would be good to use a pre-heater for this to reduce stress on the board. I know you think this is less stressful but the temperature swings from hot air create a lot of stress as the board expands and contracts in specific areas instead of the entire board. Reducing this stress is the entire point of a board pre-heater for hot air or a soak heat profile in a reflow oven. I see where others pointed out Q9 at 7:45 and R52 at 8:04 but at 6:59 you also lost C50.

I suppose that would be a lot faster! One day I just might buy the heat gun for more efficient work!

Nice video thank you

What microscope do you use? I’ve ordered a few off Amazon and was very disappointed. Thank you.

Thanks for another great video Luke. Did I hear right in one of your previous videos you can do repairs for free for content for your channel? I have a GBA which had a screen mod, clean amp pro, dehum kit and clicky triggers but the power switch recently broke so I attempted to solder a new one but in the process messed up some pads, then messed up some more pads trying to fix it, ended up running some wires from vcc and SW1, I then ended up needing a 150ohm resistor for r13, then my fuse has now gone! I bridged where the fuse should go just to check to see if I'd gained power again but the GBA just started smoking so I had to quickly remove the batteries and have no idea where the smoke was coming from! I'd very much appreciate if you could take a look to see if this console is fixable! I'm scared to touch it again now, otherwise I think I'd have to remove all my mods and buy a new GBA, all because of a stupid power switch fail!

Ola ,amigo tengo un problema ,la pantalla demi consola tiene la tercera parte casi totalmente oscura arriba, le he cambiado los condensadores pensando que con eso se arreglaba y no ,mejoro el sonido y el brillo pero sigue igual la pantalla ,tu que sabes ...que sucede ai hombre y gracias🧐