Sail Life - 3D printer onboard & hike to abandoned tracking station

You'll want to flip the embossing image if the intent is to press it into leather. Otherwise it will show up backwards.

My life is finally complete. The nav station desk hole is fixed. I can die peacefully now.

Mads, Athena is now done! The hole-around-the-pole trim was what we’ve all been waiting for🤣.

Oh boy, Pandora's Box has been opened. Mads + 3D printer = scads and scads of oh-so-satisfying DIY adventures! I see cable and wire management, stowage organization, parts replacements/improvements, etc. Let the fun begin!

I wasn't sure i would still like this channel after you started cruising, I definitely do. The History part with Ava is rocking it

A little bit bigger hole? OH GLORIOUS SANDPAPER! 😊

Thank you for plugging that gap between the pole and the nav station, I've been staring at that for YEARS!

Mads, while watching this one I was thinking... You should do a focused search for next project in the Pacific Northwest! You can work on boats all year, it doesn't get too hot, exceptional cruising when your finished, perfect! Also, we have students take 1 class at the college just to have access to an awesome shop! I'm excited for your next project. Let us know if you ever need a set of eyes on a potential project vessel. Mike

Oooo! The long neglected, shamefully apparent and finally fixed nav station corner gets a very spiffy trim ring enhancement. Very nice Mads! Ava's stamp on the other hand will result is a fun house version of the Sail Life Logo; you need the stamp to be in mirror image, of course you probably know that by now. :-) Always enjoy the channel.

Thank you so much Mads for the 3-D printed Escutcheon Plate for the Nav Station grab bar. All of my hair has grown back and I have boundless energy. Pete

"...somewhat extensive refit..." cracks me up every time.

Just a warning on the 3d printed plugs. If that's a 'wet' space you may have to spend extra time trying to keep them clean, as 3d prints are not 100% water impermeable and mold and such likes to slowly grow in between the extruded layers. It might pay to epoxy or coat the surface, or if you printed in ABS Vapor smoothing can be used to make a perfectly smooth impermeable surface, at the cost of warping dimensions slightly.

As someone who does CAD for a living, this makes me so happy to see!!! I’ve been watching for the past 5 years or so and have been waiting for this day. Looking forward to seeing your progress! As far as keeping your filament dry, you can find a dry box (like a pelican case or similar) and put some of those silica packets in it to keep moisture out

That's a pretty impressive color match between the filament and the hatch.

Nice finish on the pole base. Do a cap for the top of your pole as well.

Just so you know... you can sand 3d prints smooth (or if you're going to paint them first spray them with filling primer, sand, then paint). Also, when printing always consider the direction of the layer lines if strength matters

Not sure if it bothers you, but I believe you can disable the clock on the oven so you don't have to have that "12:00" blinking. While the oven is off - hold Clock and "Plus" button until it goes dark. It could also be just hold any combination of two buttons until it switches off. F.ex. hold "+" and "-" until the clock goes dark. To enable, just hold again. Any timers, countdown etc. are in use, it will still work as normal. Hopefully it does retain the setting after losing power...

We are planning on leave for the Caribbean next may. I thought I was the only one planning on bringing a Prusa MINI on such a trip. Seems like a no brainer. A few tips if you haven't gotten these already; - Switch to PETG, way more ductile than PLA and better layer adhesion. Buy the black stuff for outside. The black pigment provides sort of a UV resistant barrier to the underlaying plastic. White should be good for the inside of the boat. - Buy a small roll of flexible filament. All the 3D printing experts will tell you it is impossible on a MINI, including Prusa but it works fine. Better than on a MK3S in fact but that is my experience. Using the flexible stuff currently to print waterproof gaskets fur under my stanchions. Time will tell if this was brilliant or stupid. Definitely keen to see you go to town with this setup and can't wait to see what you come up with.

Ah I finally have peace in my soul now that the gap around the pole is finally sorted 😌

A tip for getting a nice finish is to use a spray filler for plastics (for car body work etc). They cover up those layers easily, and can be sanded down for painting.  The filler will of course alter the dimensions slightly, but just scale it down a bit before print. Sanding the layers it a hassle, and usually still doesn't give a uniform finish. Over time with the varying temperature and UV, PLA will become more brittle. For "permanent" parts like that I really do recommend PETG. It's almost as easy to print as PLA, but you'll have a bit more stringing, and maybe tighter tolerances, so there is usually a bit of tweaking on the model when going from PLA to PETG. As for movement - no issue. You could probably mount that printer upside in the headliner and it would still work without problems. As long as you purchase quality filament, moisture is usually not a problem. I've had a roll of Prusament sitting open in a bedroom for 3 years, and it's still printing fine.