Ai Mori 𝐕𝐒 Janja Garnbret

0:00 Timestamps Below 0:09 Janja Garnbret SLO 2:48 CRUX 1 4:16 CRUX 2 6:23 Chae Hyun KOR 9:05 Ai Mori 11:13 WOW 12:15 Ai Mori BEAST MODE 13:43 Results

I hate when they constantly say Mori is hesitant. She is not hesitant, she is feeling the holds and deciding what she wants to do. She is just that good to be able to change things midway when she feels there is a more economical way of getting it done. She does not fight the wall and just falls into the angles, good study of fulcrum. The beauty and intelligence of her movement is a treat to watch.

11:19 "she's not so good at this but she gets far enough" is something I'd like them to say twice! Ai Mori is fantastic at these static moves and she finds genius solutions to dynos that no one else finds. Ai is very talented but it seems the commentator is always trying to cast doubt on her talent. I wonder if they're trying too hard to favor Janja sometimes.

And Ai-san still does not get the credit she deserves. Two consecutive lead comps she has won and it was framed as Janja lost it in the semi final by failing to clip the last quick draw in time, which while true on the count back rules, but IFSC frames the narrative as Janja lost rather than Ai-san won.

Janja is the top athlete in the WC, but her level is incredibly dominant - only Chaehyung Seo and Natalia Grossman reached all the finals in the Lead WC 2022. The fact that she, with the exception of Koper, was always at the top underlines that. With Ai Mori Janja have now an another top athlete to beat. Rather, Ai Mori has confirmed that she can beat Janja. That makes next year's WC more exciting, especially for the next Olympic Games in 2024 in Paris. And that's something that makes the sport more attractive to spectators.

I just love ai mori style, she climbing new style route with traditional climbing stlye... It jist beautiful to watch

Ai Mori didn’t have to topped faster than Janja. If she tops, she’ll automatically be above Janja. Since Janja didn’t top the semifinal (due to run out of the time). But she has to be faster than Seo (just in case Seo also topped the route). I enjoy this 3 ways battle between Ai vs Janja vs Seo. Pushed each other to be better and better.

Aí Mori is incredible, love her attitude off the wall and on the wall too. Hope seeing her for a long time in the comps

Seeing this 3 way fight in person was absolutley incredible, you could tell the exact second Ai Mori saw the clock because she FLEW up the top of the route. The noise was insane as the clock started to get low and I belive she clipped with to 2 seconds left!!!!!

imagine being a route setter and putting a superb dyno that will test the climbers dynamic abilities to the limit and then Ai comes and does it statically

Ai Mori has to go back to the school for the new school season. She will not register the next Jakarta WC. I miss her. We will see her at the Morioka WC next.

It's rare to see Ai smiling, she is always so focused and keeps poker face... but love her climbing style and insane ability to find ways that no one can think of❤

Ai is one of my favorite climbers. So amazing to watch

Janja won the world cup this year, but the true star is this impressive tiny Japanese climber. She competed just few times and she's already a legend.

I think it would be very cool and exciting to have a timer that shows the split between climbers at different holds/sections of the route. I wonder if Ai was quite behind Janja on time earlier on in the route, then played an immense amount of catch up to win it

These videos would be much better without the awful music underneath

Wow this is just.. amazing competition I can't say anything really respect two of them but especially to Mori

13:36 an angel descending from heaven! As the music plays

Way back in the Golden Age, Chuck Pratt was the finesse/balance climber. Ai Mori is more like that. Janja climbs more like a guy. Ai's first place is more remarkable, as she has less experience, and the makeup of these routes favor her dynamic style.

Thanks! Music is a bit too loud, though.