How to Make a Copper Proofing Parrot

Clawhammer Supply
Clawhammer Supply
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Published 2014-04-17
Step 1, clean all the parts with a wire brush and some sandpaper. Just clean the end of the pipes and the inside of the fittings and you're good to go. While you're watching me do this I'm going to explain for those of you who do not know what a parrot is, what it does. Parrots allow you to measure the proof of alcohol as it is coming out of your still real-time. Alcohol will flow from the output of a still into the collection vessel on the parrot and then down up around the hydrometer (which will be placed into the parrot) and then out and into a collection vessel (for example a mason jar). In the process proof will be measured in real time.

So, tip number one here, always make sure you're using water soluble flux. Step number one, actually, step number 2 here solder the large reducer "t" fitting onto the end of the 1 inch pipe. The fitting should be flush with or slightly inset from the end of the pipe. It's not too critical exactly where you get that thing. Just get it, get the end of that fitting nearly flush with the end of the pipe.

So, I'm using some lead free solder here. Make sure you're using lead free solder. You'll notice that as I'm soldering these joints, what I do is I will add heat to the joints, I tap the um joint with my solder, and as soon as that solder starts to melt, I pull the heat away. At that point, once the solder is melting, you generally don't need to add any more heat. What, what adding more heat at that point will actually do is um start to cause some soot to build up on that joint and at that point you're going to have a difficult time getting the solder to flow into that joint and stick. So, as soon as the solder starts to melt (you'll see me do it again here) pull the heat away. I also like to heat the bottom of these joints and tap the solder to let the solder flow down from the top. That's generally how most people sweat pipe joints and it works pretty well.

So what I've done is I've here is I've added a 1 inch to ½ inch reducer coupling on the bottom of that 1 inch pipe a little ½ inch connector, a ½ by ½ by ½ inch "T", another little ½ inch male connector, and then the end cap on the end there.
Notice the ½ by ½ by ½ "T", the small "T", the middle port on that is facing the opposite from the middle port, port on the large reducer "T" on the other end of the parrot there. Make sure you install the parts that way.

Alright, next step here after you get those joints soldered together is to add your 90 degree street and then add the large, the longest actually, the longest ½" pipe to that 90 degree elbow and then you'll take the smaller ½ inch pipe that comes with the kit and use that to prop that uh, ½ inch piece of pipe (the longer piece of ½ inch pipe) up so it is parallel with the 1 inch piece of pipe. And you'll see I'm kind of just making some last minute adjustments there to make sure that is all lined up properly.

So I'm soldering the 90 degree street here into the ½ by ½ by ½ "T". I'm also soldering that longer piece of ½ inch pipe into the other end of the 90 uh degree street elbow. What I like to do is sort of wipe these joints off after I'm done, after they've had a chance to cool a little bit. As I'm going, it just makes the final cleanup a bit easier.

Speaking of the final cleanup, you'll see the final product at the end of this video. But what I will do is I'll take some100 grit sandpaper and I'll just kind of rough the whole thing up. I like to put a nice little matte finish on there. I mean you can take the time to polish it all up and make it all bright and shiny so you can see your reflection in it, um, but I'll tell you what, unless you keep up with that routine it's going to get sort of dirty and faded in the end anyway. So, I don't take a whole lot of time to do it, but I definitely will, ill kind of sand it up and sand all the grit off there once I'm done, at the very least.

So, the last couple of steps I'm soldering the one half to inch and a half cup on there, and then I'm soldering the last couple of fittings on there.

What you end up with when you're all done with this thing is a nice, bright, shiny, copper parrot. It looks great and we're really proud of this new product we have for you here. Make sure to visit our website for our parrot kits, and our stills, and much, much more at www.clawhammersupply.com

Here's a link to the parrot parts: goo.gl/4wkyaV
All Comments (21)
  • @tyking1533
    And here I was about to send Kyle an email asking if this parrot was an overflow and catch design so the proof and trale meter could be easily read.  Nice work Kyle.  You're making some great gear.
  • @gordlockwood1213
    There is a theory that to avoid smearing, there should be a ball valve where cap is. The parrot would have to be supported in another way. The ball valve at bottom would allow everything in parrot to be instantly emptied. There would then be no smearing between jars.
  • @whiskeyjoe40
    Good stuff guys. Shows what you can do with a few common supplies from the hardware store. Keep the video's coming. We all can always learn something from one another, or maybe just a new twist on something old.
  • @InsidiousDr9
    Looks good, I think it is better to heat from the bottom AND solder from the bottom - if you start at the top you're more likely to get gravity to drip down the sides, if you go upwards the capillary action has better chance to wick up the molton solder.
  • @mattcero1
    Can we get the parts listed out? I know you want to sell the parts kit but I'd like just the parts list please. Thank you.
  • @classicbikerx3588
    Is that built correctly? I built my parrot to where the large pipe where the alcoholometer floats is above the lip of the top catch cup and runoff stem. Makes reading the proof 10X easier and more accurate than it being recessed down in the cup. In that build you will be reading the proof at the drain stem port and viewing at a 45º angle.
  • @chrislnflorida5192
    QUESTION: Why couldn't U design the Parrot to where u can put the Hydrometer in the beginning of your collection? Wouldn't that save another step of the process?
  • @OneOfDisease
    Seems like a very large parrot, how much volume would you need to be running to 'need' a parrot like that?
  • @dantediana9229
    what's the list for all the joints, fitting, adapter and pipe.
  • @emilkermendy4595
    Is the flux and solder the same we use for electric cable soldering ?
  • @adamkurschner
    Is the pipe cap at the bottom of the T fitting just for mounting to the board or does it serve some other purpose? I'm just wondering why you wouldn't use a 90° fitting.
  • @neutralgod300
    you should start the video with the parts you need first! this is one of the most important steps cause if you don't have the right parts! how are you going to do it?????
  • @SharkRangler
    Do yourself a favor!, assemble in the order Kyle has done it.  I'm a handyman carpenter and have done random small sweating projects, another involving reducers and such.  I thought I was smart and assembled the whole thing thinking I was a wisenheimer.  Nope.  I got the first couple joints soldered all around the "T" and came to the large pipe... ended up desoldering all the other joints.  I felt like a newb... And all the heat destroys the flux on future joints and leaves nasty unsolder-able joints.  I had to take apart some of the joints, clean them up and start over.  Yeah...  Wish I had watched this video first. lol
  • @davidcooley5135
    guys were can a man go buy this kind of copper sheeting to build a steel and what's the best thickness's