I Made A BIG Rotating Magnet Induction Heater! (with magnets from First4Magnets.com)

I originally came for the railway, and sort of miss those videos (but I understand your point about it needing to earn its keep), but stay because every video is a wild, soft-spoken and cobbled together ride, and I often learn something new along the way!👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

This project is an attractive proposition. 50% of the time.

"The more things jiggle the hotter they get". I can relate to that 🤣🤣

Forget heating your house, you could make the world's biggest wind-powered induction cooking pot! Imagine the size of the soups.

As a fellow tinkerer and the powers invested in me by the School Of Hard Knocks, I hereby dub thee: a true Gizmologist and a Master Gizematician and you shall now be known as Sir Tim of the Gizmo. Go forth and wear your laurels well!

my hats off to anyone making things in ireland. everytime i see metal it looks like the weather just eats it away! thank you for the videos tim :D

Since the windmill will be pretty powerful, you can stack more than one disk along the shaft. Then you can coil your copper tube to pass between two disks with every loop. Btw i was impressed by the performances, that thing surely heats! Much better then the friction system. Also, watch the temperature of the magnets!

You have to watch the temperature of the magnets, especially for Neodym! N 80 °C M 100 °C H 120 °C SH 150 °C UH 180°C EH 200 °C Overheating them, means they loose their magnetism....

A easier and safer suggestion: It doesn't matter whether the magnets or copper is rotating. So rotate a copper disk and have the magnets on a non-moving board to remove the risk of the magnets flying off. Even better, for the rotating disk, use aluminum rather than copper - it wont make a difference which is used as long as they are thick enough. The thickness should be the "skin depth" at 666Hz (40,000 flips/min divide 60) which for Copper is 2.5mm and Al is 3.1mm, so a disk of either at those thicknesses will be as good as you can hope to get in terms of heat generation from eddy currents. Even better, if your stationary magnets are mounted in a thin holder, use two disks, one on each side of the magnets for twice the heat. And, since the heat is generated in the rapidly rotating aluminum disk(s), the rotation will create air movement to help transfer heat to the air. Regards from Canada!

@Way Out West - Workshop Stuff 8:08 USE A WEDGE to handle these types of magnets. Make a wooden wedge, at a shallow angle, then wedge the magnets apart but ALSO together so they don't slam into each other & break (as you have done twice already). It is also MUCH safer for your fingers & other limbs, also be careful of magnet-fragments flying at high speeds towards your eyes. You can also build a kind of wooden "scissor", to "sheer off" one magnet from the rest.

The heater, the explainations in the video, and the remarkable technical comments/discussion between users truly made this video one of the best I've seen on YT in years. Kudos!

Great experiment Tim. Would love to see this done again with a long tube of copper that goes most way round the disc. Once the water heats up, it should set up its own recirculatorry action into a bucket with the cool water feeding in the bottom, and the hot water spitting out the tube into the top of the bucket.

As it's setup right now, the magnets produce a magnetic field on both sides of the disk. That means you could put metal on both sides of the disk. Or you could use something called a Halbach array, which is a special way to arrange the magnets so that most of the magnetic field is on only one side of the disk.

Glad to see you investigating magnets. Having worked with Neodymium magnets before, I can warn you pay close attention to the temperature warnings: the magnets lose strength quite rapidly and permanently starting at around 80c So you'll want to keep the heat you're generating away from the magnets you're using the generate it. A vexing problem. Good Luck!

What a ride. I had to look up when the bandsaw build was because thats when I and i assume many others found the channel. 7 years! So many cool projects.

Sub'd. No way I'm going to miss this project. When I was a teen (back in the 1800s I think) in Kansas, I built a windmill rock polisher. It was direct drive -- simply a trailer tire about 1/3 the diameter of a pretty rough, dual-bladed approx 1 meter windmill, hooked directly to the shaft. The grit and the rocks were dumped into the bottom side of the tire. They tumbled there just fine until the rpms got to where the rocks ceased tumbling and just became fixed to the inside of the tire. This caused me to install flexible blades on the windmill that regulated rpms down to where the rocks remained tumbling in all but the worst wind Kansas could throw at it. Then I became interested in girls and junked the whole apparatus.

We'll keep you in our prayers Tim, hope you get over your flu soon.

Nice example of energy transfer! You could use this magnet system and a copper pipe, that goes all the way around, on both sides, to heat water, then pump it to where ever you need heat. Then again, energy is energy - You could do the exact same thing with coils of wire, making AC current, and run electric heaters. Or you could just run a water pump in a loop. Every joule of energy put into the pump, would eventually turn into heat, plus you have a simple means of getting the heat out. Even easier, run a fan that circulates the air. I've seen 13 hp blowers, freewheeling and blowing into themselfs, catch internals on fire from the build up of heat. Maybe a box with a fan going to the windmill, and you open vents to let some of the heated air out as needed. Also if you have a gate valve on the recirculating air, you can control the resistance to the windmill by how much air is moved by the fan. Like you say, there is more ways to skin a cat. (I think I've heard you say that. )

I was talking to someone with experience of old school wind turbines who told me that they had self furling built into them. The horizontal axis around which the blades spun was offset from the vertical axis around which the head rotated to face the wind. This meant that the blades wanted to turn away from the wind, counteracted by the tail - which was held in place by a spring. When the windspeed applied a force on the blade disc that exceeded the strength of the spring, the blades turned out of the wind. This was complemented with a manual override that pulled the tail parallel to the blades and so the disc too was parallel to the wind.

I have been thinking and it seems to me that the best solution is to put a three-phase alternator with a small pulley, and another huge pulley like the one you already made and generate electricity, transport it by cables and put electric resistors inside the house. In the end if you produce heat and you have to transport it through pipes, it's expensive, cumbersome and you lose a lot along the way. And in Spain I have found old 20kw generators for 300€. I don't think your windmill will generate that much.