Part 16: 1939-1948 Chevrolet Lever Type Shock Absorber R&R

Thank you very much sharing how the old knee action shocks work and fix.

Another top-notch video! My '47 Fleetmaster had undoubtedly been driven for many years with an out-of -balance or out-of-round tire, and the bushings in the left front shock were badly worn. This is why we take care of problems instead of driving on! The top of the wheel could move about 1/2" fore and aft! I shipped them to a place in NY that rebuilt them - but incurred an extra charge because one of the pistons was stuck down in the bore. Probably a good thing I didn't see how it was removed..... All told, about $500 to rebuild the two. So far, the single most expensive job on the car. But quite necessary to make it safe to drive. Right now, there seems to be a shortage of door window channels. The humor in your videos, as well as references to lyrics, are greatly appreciated! I command the lightening's hand!

Boy on my 46 Chevy coupe is on a 71 chevelle frame, little Fab work same wheel base, fit like a Glove ! Better Everything !👍😁

Thank you for this video. I have been waiting for someone that knows what they are doing to post something like this for a long time. So again thanks for this video.

What a great video! I learned alot about the lever arm shock that I really knew nothing about. You explained it well. I have a 1940 Cadillac that has these kind of shocks. They may be built a little different but the general idea on gow they work should be similar to what you had in this video. Now I know what to look for when I get to that point in my restoration. Thanks

they used to sell a rebuild kit for the shocks / in the days of JC whitney , i replaced mine with rebuilt or nos ones back in 1976-78 best i remember, they never did leak but i did buy hyd jack oil in case i still have it ha ha / i adapted modern tube shocks in rear . later on i put on new leaf springs sometime after 1984 , one had broke good job thanks

About time I found you. I’ve got a ‘48 Stylemaster Coupe that wanders down the road like a drunken sailor. Considering the fact it’s got a 400 hp 327 Chevy engine in it makes driving an adventure. As I’m not a rich man i can’t afford to replace the front end with a IFS Mustang 2. So, I’m left making my stock front end as reliable and capable as I can. Your presentation is phenomenal and I believe I’ll be able to make some improvements in the handling of my old Coupe.

In 1965 I had a buddy with a very low mileage 39. He inherited it from grandma. Very pristine inside and out, always garaged and still shined. I don't remember the mileage but it was less than 25k. He had the coolest car at school.

I really enjoy your vids and am learning a lot. I use you as a reference for my 38 Pontiac coupe. My 1st project and am very much a novice. Thank you for the verses, it blesses me

The first time I dealt with these kinds of shocks was on a 1967 MGB - they work the same. On the MGB it is also doubles as the upper A arm. These are $350+ each. It caused shakes at 55ish in my car and I tried to rebuild them and they just leaked out over several hundred miles. Don't do what I do but I did this to save the $700 and my idea I'm about to share worked! I drained the shocks (I think it was whale oil as it stunk like old fish) and filled them with contact cement... I just didn't have the $700 so I had to come up with something. Darn if it didn't work and it drove like a dream. Since then I have done this on many Lockheed & Armstrong lever shocks and it works very well. You don't look like you need to go that far here, but I just wanted to put this idea out there if you had one that was really shot like mine was. I can't recommend anyone do this but it's FAR safer than flopping useless shocks. In my world they sell different valves to make the shock stronger but my method works fine for me as I follow the rule of never drive a car on a road that is newer then the car - thus I never set foot on the interstates or anything over a 50MPH speed limit. I have a 1957 GMC, a TR4 and some other cars. I love the old girls but if I can save $$$ I do it. I am super safe and don't mind upgrading things but here is a place to keep cost down. Bobby

You mentioned you keep saying "packing". That's what the shop manual calls them too. They also say if the shock has been operating below the proper level, they will become worn and leak. Which the front ones on my 40 Master Deluxe were. The right side seemed to self heal, not so for the left. So far the rears are OK. Thanks for the videos!

Thank you for the information. I have a 1949 Chevy 3100

Thank you for this video. Very interested in seeing the rest of the project's for this car, king pins, stabilizer bar, etc

I had to do this on a 37 olds f37 resto mod i built for a old timer he wanted to keep the factory brakes steering and suspension but wanted a stove bolt 250 with dual carbs/ex and o/d it was 07 and he was 73 so to him thats a "real hotrod" car turned out awsome i slurry blasted off the grease and was able to put it back together perfectly the best way i found to do it is i use i internal spring compressor and lock the spring down to its plate remove plate with spring then you can remove the entire upper lower arms and spindle as one piece and do it on a bench

Good job. Enjoyed it. You make it look easier then when I do it on my 41s. Do too!

Jack oil is the best to use.. not atf. It will leak after a few months and ruin the rubber seal.

Great info here thank you. I'm looking at getting a '47 Stylemaster coupe and just gathering info.

I've been told I'm special before 😆 & you are quite the wrencher.. pretty fast id say haaaahaaa

I have a 38 Buick have to try this

Not knocking your work but I would have converting it over to conventional shock absorbers also in 1949 and up cars started using conventional shock absorbers