The Rise and Fall of Biba

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Published 2024-07-27
The original Biba store lasted only 12 years, but made an incredible impact on the fashion and the retailing worlds. The first store to utilise low lighting and loud music, the first the have communal changing rooms, the first to sell seemingly unrelated ancillary products like diaries, the list of innovations made by this team of two (Barbara Hulanicki and her husband Stephen Fitz-Simon) is as long as your arm. So why then did it fall? Well, they never moved the business over from its original sole trader status, which it's always advised to do when a business starts making anywhere near serious money, and it left them vulnerable to the affects of bankruptcy. So, when they made one catalogue that didn't sell as well as the others, it left them desperate, soon establishing Biba Ltd. with three other partners who at first seemed great, but soon turned sour.

Beauty Channel:    / @underskinyt  
Patreon: patreon.com/understitch

Unless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.

Affiliate Links for Books Used:
Hulanicki (2014) The Biba Years: amzn.to/3zv0bxL
Hulanicki (2018) A to Biba: amzn.to/3WcEQSt
Gonzalez (2018) Chronicles of a Fashion Buyer: amzn.to/3VXRMdA
Thomas & Turner (2024) Welcome to Big Biba: amzn.to/4cM6sUJ

All Comments (21)
  • I love Barbara Hulanicki. I've been friends with her for years, and she's the most candid, funny, honest, and intelligent person I know. She's my greatest inspiration. Thank you for this video; I'm going to enjoy listening to it.
  • @jacksonmahr8915
    If only this was the only example of big British business being penny wise, pound foolish 🙄. To snuff out such a simple, remarkable, glamorous, naive, perfectly timed idea with global potential for he sake of a commercial building's asset value. A remarkable story from the time when Notting Hill / Kensington / Chelsea was affordable and open for experimental ideas. Its the most complete video of Biba I've ever seen, thank you!
  • @hkhorst7
    This was wonderfully done! I really enjoy waking up on my weekends and watching your videos. Thouroughly done and well narrated! Well done!!
  • Im in Mexico, and even if the age is right, i never heard about this store!!!.. Thanks for doing it, and im sure Barbara will love it!…
  • I had never heard of Bibs until now. That store seems mystical; shame what happened to it 😕 Thank you for making this video! I don't know if you're an educator of any sorts, but you present things in depth while magical it entertaining. I always look forward to your videos!
  • @EXOL_1485
    Just came here after watching the Haus Labs video. Two vids on one day? Damn
  • I wonder if whoever designed Hollister’s store experience was inspired by BIBA. It was a different vibe for sure, but it feels very reminiscent with the warm & low lighting, kind of shabby chic decor, signature scents sprayed throughout, and blaring indie pop music they’d have the CDs of by the registers.
  • @ChickenxBoneless
    Biba had as much impact on culture as the Beatles and lasted around just as long. Edit: It's amazing what a couple of people achieved with such a great visionary at the helm. I like to make my own clothes and I'm really inspired by Barbara's designs.
  • @ea-rl6bk
    very sad watch. that store looked amazing and so personal :(
  • @Karin77722
    Well done per usual❤ Oh snap! You got to 100K! Well deserved ❤
  • Very interesting. But I really feel the need to have another video about Biba focused on her major contribution to fashion design and her ideal type of woman. Actually I have the feeling that her last ‘70s style was very similar to what Yves Saint-Laurent proposed in Paris at the beginning of 1971 with his very controversial collection called “Libération”. This collection was full of retro inspiration with much designs inspired by fashion in the ‘40s. In Biba’s early ‘70s designs I see the same retro inspiration which was also present in her cosmetics line which prompted the renaissance of “vamp” woman of the ‘20s and ‘30s. What Saint-Laurent and Biba respectively dud in Paris and in London in the same years was revolutionary in regard to the “functional” evolution of women’s fashion in the ‘60s which had simplified so much the silhouettes from Courreges to Mary Quant. Even the idea of the woman proposed by Saint-Laurent and Biba in 1971 was different from the emancipated modern woman of the ‘60s because she now wanted to reappropriate the art of seduction. So I really encourage you to do a second video about Barbara Hulanicki’s contribution to fashion design especially in the last years of Biba and her commitment with retro fashion which is evident since the Biba logo so reminiscent of Art Nouveau’s / Art Deco’s graphic style. This has also to do with the general rediscovery of the Art Deco in the early ‘70s and artists such as Tamara De Lempicka.
  • @LADELCOTO
    Biba was magical. Thank you Barbara ❤
  • @skrittle555
    Very well-researched as always. I always learn something from your videos. So sad what happened to the company.
  • @pir006
    I'm good friends with John Bishop, he took photos of Biba's store in Kensington. His images were featured in 19 magazine, they did a spread showcasing the store. His photos feature here at 46:32-46:50 and 51:15-51:49 :)
  • @Chloe-vi5mb
    I’ve only ever seen biba in the empty corner of house of fraser the clothing is nearly always on sale and I’ve never seen anyone buy let alone wear anything from the brand
  • I really love Biba everything was unmatched in its design. Great video.
  • @markjohnson2257
    Thanks for this wonderfully researched video as usual. I have heard of the mythical Biba but didn't really know what it was all about. Now l do!!!
  • @vcharmer5536
    I remember meeting Barbara Hulanicki a few years ago, I was so starstruck 🌟
  • @stsbk
    At this point, you’ve fully inspired me to return to creating content. If you can do these fully researched videos, surely I can make my beauty content again. Thanks for all you do!