Don't Buy Oxygen Sensors! How to test o2 sensor

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Published 2021-05-28
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All Comments (21)
  • FINALLY! SOMEONE WHO ACTUALLY GETS HOW TO SHOW A ROOKIE LIKE MYSELF HOW TO CHECK FOR A FAULTY PART. THANK YOU BUDDY, EARNED ANOTHER SUB. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK AND SHOW GUYS LIKE ME AND ALSO WALKING US THRU WHAT YOUR DOING, INSTEAD OF ASSUMING WE KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING. CLEAR AND STRAIGHT FORWARD VISUAL AND SPEAKING. YOUR AWESOME DUDE 👍🏾
  • just a note, the second oxygen sensor is not the one controlling the mixture for the ECU, its function is only to see that the signal when compared to the front sensor ist flat meaning the cat is functioning. The front sensor is used to test for air/fuel ratio and tell the ECU what mixture adjustment is required. So your faultcode could only come from the upstream (front) sensor. Downstream would cause a „Cat inefficient“ code on the motor warning. have fun, Bernhard
  • @paulr4353
    Why didn't you check the supply voltage to the heater? Both white wires, which should be ~12vdc. For the supply you checked the voltage on the grey and black wires on the supply side connector, which showed ~1.5Vdc. Those wires receive the voltage from the sensor, not send voltage to the sensor.
  • @tunafish3216
    I’ve seen people bench test them using a propane torch with out running the vehicle and it works great.
  • My OBD2 Scanner said that I needed to replace the upstream oxygen sensor. I had already bought a new oxygen sensor prior to watching this lol so I was scared I bought it for nothing but I still have the receipts just in case I want to return it.. I did what you did in this video and turns out that I need a new oxygen sensor after all 😆
  • @johnmitchell8925
    thats one really nice thing about a off road vehicle you dont need tp jack it up to work on most things
  • An oxygen sensor is made of zirconium oxide (ZrO2), a chemical compound used to form the sensor’s thermal-driven electrochemical fuel cell. Energy is generated by the difference of oxygen inside compared to the outside. Two platinum (Pt) electrodes are placed on the ZrO2 to provide a connection for output voltage to a control module. An output voltage of 0.2 V (200 mV) DC represents a lean mixture where there is a lot of oxygen in the exhaust stream. A reading of 0.8 V (800 mV) DC represents a rich mixture where there is little or no oxygen in the exhaust stream. The ideal point is 0.45 V (450 mV) DC – this is where the quantities of air and fuel are in the optimum – or stoichiometric – ratio
  • Oxygen sensors should be cleaned at 90K and 180K(replace them at 250K) by removing them and heating the sensing portion all around to cherry red with a propane torch, while checking response time with a volt meter. Using a meter while on the vehicle is not necessary as you can just hook up an OBD2 reader set to read live data. On an early fuel injected vehicle this method may be useful. *Edit for those not familiar with O2 sensors: there are four wires. Two are the same color, two are different colors. Connect your volt meter set to DC volts on the two wires which are different colors. Polarity doesn't matter.
  • Thank you for your teaching video... very educational. I have a suggestion for you if I may. The old sensor that no good. Don't throw it away, You can use it as a tool. Cut the connector in half, hook up the old connector to the wire coming from the computer. With alligator clips on your meter, You can read the voltage better. The old oxygen sensor becomes a tool. Just a thought.
  • Great diagnosis Dale . You sure are teaching Sasha a lot and the cool thing in my book is that she shows a lot of interest . I have been trying to catch you live on Wednesday's but I have had a lot of doctors appointments on that day . I have about six more weeks of injections then I will be able to catch you all live again. Have a great weekend and be safe .
  • Dude! There is a good reason you have almost a million views. Someone...you, finally showed (as Paul Harvey would say) the rest of the story on testing the O2 sensor. Thanks for that.
  • @BigBlock632
    Man I absolutely miss my 97 Cherokee County! It had the strongest 6-cylinder engine I have ever driven! Torque for days! I'll have to say that was the most reliable vehicle I ever owned! Bought it used and paid $7000 for it in 2000 and drove it till 2017 and she never left me stranded! I'd trade my 2011 Sierra Texas Edition for your blue Cherokee!
  • Thank you my friend for sharing your valuable technical advice with all those who need this important help, like yours. Many thanks.
  • I'm not calling you out or being rude. this is just info for the people watching. do NOT stick your probe in the connectors directly, you will bend the metal tabs and could create another problem on top of the one you have due to the connector no longer making a connection. always back probe the connectors. no damage that way. i learned this the hard way.
  • Awesome! Even though I get a code on what O2 sensor to change, now I know how to use a meter to verify before swapping it out.
  • @ProfessorKenny
    your obd scanner should display real-time voltage for each sensor on each bank, as well as fuel trims.... a multimeter externally used isn't really necessary then. But still useful if you have no scanner available.
  • Now I can check my own O2 sensor and verify if it is faulty. Thanks for the information.
  • @mariobueno3368
    Excellent way to describe the process and why it's not working.
  • @steveforbes8287
    This is an excellent demonstration of how to properly test the sensors works on almost every vehicle. I needed it because I am having troubles with my Toyota Camry and all indications from the OBDII lead me to the downstream sensor which is an unpleasant thing to reach. Looks like I can now at least test it before dealing with an unpleasantly hot exhaust system that needs to be dropped in order to remove said sensor. Thank you for a nice and concise video.