Faulty Gliderol Garage Door Opener / Controller | Can I Fix It?

Thanks again really appreciate it. Great work

That's a considerate and generous viewer, to include spare parts as well as tasty treats!!

Nice job fixing that. As a bonus you got some snacks too. It's been almost forty years since I got snacks for fixing stuff for grateful people.

Just found your channel and I’m fascinated, the amount of money I have lost over the years on things that probably only needed a simple fix is criminal. I am going to have to watch more videos as I am hooked. 👍

Nice fix Mick! You inspired me to fix a high amps 12V battery charger for my father this week. Was a pain to diagnose as the output was short circuited, and every component going between plus and minus had to be taken off for measurement. Started with witness marks, output capacitors had brown goo coming from them, turned out to be factory flux. Tested with mains and found the schottky diode package was getting really hot, removed and tested fine. With those removed the short was isolated to the output diodes or a 330k ohm resistor. Resistor was of course fine, but both diodes were fried. Luckily found some spares and soldered everything back together, and it works! Biggest hurdle was the big powerplanes with leadfree solder. Ended up needing dual soldering irons just to get things off 😂 Very satisfying repair, so I get why you do this👍 Keep on keeping on!

Great fault finding Mick!

Just a tip, on hard to read part numbers you can usually use a tiny bit of thermal compound on the component and wipe off the excess to make the engraving more visible as the compound fills the engraved numbers/letters. Obviously this doesn't work with forcibly sanded part numbers but can really help in a pinch with ones that are technically still visible but hard to see. Another great fix!

Sometimes an easy fix is satisfying, a duff diode or bad caps can give a real sense of achievement, more complex fixes are great too until you end up in the rabbit hole..

Another successful repair save from going to the Wastelands 🎉 keep those videos coming appreciate your work

Excellent work, as always. The way you effortlessly take components off the board to check them always amazes me. When I try doing that the SMB components just vanish into thin air, never to be seen again, the slippery little buggers... 🤣🤣

Hello from Australia again Mick🙃 Nice work as per usual and yes I thoroughly enjoyed your process of diagnosis. Great Job.

The tatty end on your test probe is getting to me!

He should have sent you the garage door so you could test it. 😄

When pulling caps to test them, I'd pull the one closes to the rectifier - it's the one that gets worked the hardest and most likely the first to fail.

Nice troubleshooting mate. Well done. Cheers!

Now that's great diagnostics!

You should only use the current limiter for a quick check whether you have a short or not. Ideally, you see a short flash of the bulb while the capacitors are charging. Expect weird behaviour (flickering) if there is PFC. Permanent light means "short". You should not test normal device operation with the bulb in series, as the voltage reaching the device is substantially lower than what is expected and this might cause problems.

You're not just trying, you are knowing what you do! I really would like to know more about your background. Is this all self taught?

Another good one, always waiting for your videos, thanks for sharing 👍. Greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹

Looks like you fixed it. I have to say I was surprised when you removed one of the 220 mfd capacitors and checked it and it was good, that you didn't read the others on that line while you had it out. But really doesn't matter since you did find the culprit part...