I couldn’t believe the difference this made

As a design engineer, if I designed an appliance specifically for use in an RV, marine, or other 12V DC battery operation that couldn't accommodate 10.5-15 volts, I deserve to be fired.

By adding one of these regulators cured the problems with the roof fan and remote. Spot on video John.

Thanks John. I was wondering the same thing when my LED light replacements were getting hot and blowing on occasion. I used the same Dc to Dc 12v controller in the fuse line for the lighting and have had no problems. Ended up buying an additional 30amp Dc to Dc 13.8v converter and put in line with the camper main accessories fuse. 1.8v extra allows USB chargers etc to charge better but keeps the working voltage within range for most 12v appliances like your Echo DOT. Not sure I have it all right but like you, have a technical background and feel I got it about right. Great video, pleased to see it out there. Russell

😂 I'm having a chuckle to myself after wondering if you were going to mention the maxfan as well, and you did. I found that my fan wouldn't work when the leasure battery voltage went high due to the on-board battery charger cycle. It took me a little while to fathom it out, ( the voltage range is described in the instructions somewhere) but I too fitted the same regulator to a supplementary fuse board ( like in your photo) and it cured the problem. A word of caution to others though, as the first regulator I bought was defective and was wildly inaccurate, leading to a range of outputs, so my advice is do check the output of these regulators before installing as not all regulators are of equal quality. Cheers John, I enjoyed the video and the explanation. 👋

12v devices intended for use in vehicles may say 12v on them but that is because Joe Public with no knowledge of vehicle electronics and such would get confused if they stated 10.5-15v or similar, because any standard lead battery will operate in that range. The 12v is just to distinguish from 24v or 48v. 12v electromics intended for use in the home are an emtirely different kettle of fish and then what you say is correct, but if fans and fridges intended for vehicles cannot operate (or fail safe) at the full range of voltages found in vehicles during normal operation that is a design flaw. Nothing to do with lithium batteries as they operate well within the voltage range of lead acid which can go up to 15v or so, voltages that would destroy a "12v" lithium battery if not protected by a BMS. By the way the native voltage of an EV is rarely if ever 48v, normally many 100's of volts, unless you are talking about golf carts and fork lifts.

Just in time for my van build! My shed is rapidly filling up with parts for the build. I’m quite wary of the electric side of things so these videos are helpful

How interesting John, I think I will try my fridge set up like yours and give it a go

This all makes sense. This is partly why I am usingTeltonika stuff for the switch and router in my campervan build as they can take input of 9-50V. I do use a converter for my laptop docking station as it uses 22V, but to be honest, never even thought about how fussy the Maxair fans or diesel heater would be. Thanks for the headsup!

Thanks for the video John, it’s very interesting to see the results you’re getting. Having worked with electronics my entire life I can only agree that the voltage is critical to so many devices. The surprise for me is that so many manufacturers haven’t already fitted regulators within their equipment to stop this happening. Especially those devices designed for use in a vehicle.

Hi, just now installing a D heater in my cargo trailer! Perfect ordered one , will check the rest of the “12V” circuits, lights and stuff. Thanks! ❤

Please hurry with the broadband fingamyjig,hehe.Great to see Mandy ring that bell.

That is very useful information for anyone with a van or even building one. If you have a fuse board providing power to more than 1 USB or USBC port perhaps you can mount it near the fuse board so that it feeds everything on that circuit.

Thanks. I wasnt aware of this. Will try on essential devices. Cheers

Amazing thank you! Will try it.

Thx John, It made me check my camper after conversion. Found most of the good electric devices to coop with 10.5 to 16 Volt but some where really 12 - 13.5 volt only. I have no started to convert the once I need to protect. Good to Know that on the Maxxfan it also helps to cut noise and wear of the fan. ❤😊

Some electronics are designed for cars, 10.5 - 14.4V, but others really really need exactly 12V. Everything works Ok with exactly 12V, so this levels the playing field. TBH It's not much to do with lithium, as a freshly charge lead-acid will kill some 12V items too.

I have a standard Swift Escape 674 no lithium. I to was worried about higher voltages especially when the engine is running and the smart alternator produces more than 14 volts. I fitted a mobile router which is 12v supply I decided to regulate the voltage to exactly 12v and so far has worked great. To be fair it worked ok before but I’ve seen this sort of thing cause problems in the past but it’s sort of problem that creeps up and you don’t know the reason why. So well done for pointing this out.

This issue is a pain in the ass, it is not just confined to Lithium batteries, I am off-grid solar with Lead Acids, if my batteries ever read 12 volts on the meter I would be shutting everything off to protect the batteries. I never let them drop below 12.2volts normal voltage is 12.6volts after dark, after charging 13.2 and charging voltage can be up to 14.8volts. The trouble with regulators is they usually require at least two volts over the output voltage.

I've been having trouble with my fridge in my motorhome since I moved to a lithium battery. I thought I had a broken neutral, but I will poss look at putting one of these in as well. Thanks.

Found this really interesting although wouldn’t know where to start putting one of these on my diesel heater. Love these videos, hope you’re well? Take care and thanks😊