How to Build a Competitive Kart Racing Engine (Stock Appearing)

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Published 2022-05-03
How to build a stock appearing racing engine from Harbor Freight. All the tools and parts you'll need to take a non-hemi 212 Predator engine from 6.5 HP up to 18 HP.

This is my 2nd channel. For all the good content go here: youtube.com/makesomething

**Engine Parts (Total $1184.16 before taxes and shipping)**(Affiliate Links)
Non-Hemi 212 Predator: bit.ly/38wk5sl
28.5 Intake Valve:
25 Exhaust Valve: www.arcracing.com/dj-1121-stainless-steel-valve-25…
1:3 Rockers: www.arcracing.com/97-113bv-1-3-gx200-clone-black-v…
Retainers: www.arcracing.com/dj-1046t-titanium-retainer-kit-3…
Lash Caps: www.arcracing.com/dj-1051-high-performance-lash-ca…
36# Springs:
Cam: www.arcracing.com/dj-1104p-predator-f-275-cam/
Flat Top Piston: www.arcracing.com/dj-1285ph-std-bore-hemi-predator…
Connecting Rod: www.arcracing.com/6252-arc-billet-rod-040-hf-preda…
Long Carburetor Stud: www.arcracing.com/dj-1345-bsp-carb-stud/
Billet Flywheel: bit.ly/3GCpprK
Gasket Set: bit.ly/3ovVdGA
Push Rods 5.340: www.nrracing.com/product-p/cmpr-55.htm
Top Plate: bit.ly/3q7Tqbf
Fuel Pump: www.arcracing.com/fpc1-1-fuel-pump-walbro-new-styl…
Air Filter: bit.ly/3nAnk6a
Air Filter Adapter: www.bmikarts.com/Airspeed-II-Clone-Air-Filter-Adap…
Spark Plug: amzn.to/3gPgLvw
Chain Guard: bit.ly/2K1rRkq
Pre-filter: bit.ly/2XvFBXI
Header: bit.ly/38udRcs
Fuel Line: amzn.to/34TICYS
Carb: www.doverpoweronlinestore.com/catalog/item/8223863…
Valve Spacer: bit.ly/3hZk9Uo
2° advance key: www.arcracing.com/dj-2172-x-offset-key-for-clone-g…

**Tools Used**(Affiliate Links)
Plastigauge: amzn.to/3KQHBjP
Flex-Hone: amzn.to/3s8Ihdw
Piston Ring Installer: amzn.to/3Fb641P
Assembly Lube: amzn.to/3kABlBL
Ice Pick: imakeny.com/products/diresta-ice-pick
Piston Ring Compressor 70 mm: bit.ly/3s708Sk
Torque Wrench: www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-digital-torque-w…
Cut-up Side Cover: www.ebay.com/itm/324345592716?hash=item4b8480fb8c:…
Dye Grinder: amzn.to/3LDPGJP
Crankshaft Stop: www.ombwarehouse.com/3-4-crankshaft-holder-tool.ht…
Valve Grinding Compound: amzn.to/3y7SXNk
5.5 mm Reamer: www.nrracing.com/product-p/8803a416.htm
Valve Guide Hone: www.nrracing.com/product-p/bc64m240.htm
Valve Guide Remover: www.nrracing.com/product-p/07942-8920000.htm
Valve Seat Pocket Cutter: Adjustable Range: 1 1/8"- 1 1/4" for 3/8" pilot. (Ebay)
3-angle Valve Job Tool: www.nrracing.com/product-p/neway2003a.htm
Spring Pocket Cutting Tool: www.nrracing.com/product-p/springseatcutter.htm
Valve Lapper: www.nrracing.com/product-p/pt-w80570.htm
Valve Spring Tool (newer version): www.nrracing.com/product-p/vspgcompress.htm
Kart Oil: www.arcracing.com/9806-lucas-4cycle-karting-oil-ga…
Zink Additive for Break In: amzn.to/3F96lCi

*Stock Appearing Rules*
• Stock appearing Clone/Predator that must be pull started with a standard rope. No external compression release.
• No strokers. Must be stock stroke.
• No external billet parts. No billet side covers.
• No external mods.
• Must be a Clone or 212 Predator block. No Honda, Tillotson or other blocks.
• No head studs, no side cover studs. Must use bolts.
• Maximum 2.815 bore.
• Carb must be Predator/small block/Clone carb.
• Carb cannot have external mods including welding or epoxy on the outside to allow bigger bore.
• Choke can be removed and sealed
• No fuel additives. (methanol and gasoline allowed)
• No block bracing or head girdles.
• No aftermarket carb spacer between carb and head and cannot be vented or pulsed into carb or intake anywhere (valve cover spacer allowed).

This is the league I race in: www.idiotsracing.com/

Here is where I learned how to build racing engines
HP Academy: www.hpacademy.com/courses/learn-how-to-build-engin…
Book: www.ebay.com/itm/262152692345
ARC: bit.ly/3F7cIWS

0:00 Intro
0:32 Predator 212 Motor
1:03 Engine Teardown
3:38 Connecting Rod
4:10 Piston
4:35 Crankshaft Clearance
5:38 Cylinder Hone
6:08 Piston Rings
8:32 Crankshaft-Piston Assembly
9:17 Camshaft
10:50 Block Clearance
13:15 Flywheel Assembly
15:08 Ignition Timing
16:56 Ignition Coil
17:27 Cylinder Head Disassembly
18:11 Valve Seat Removal
19:05 Valve Guide Honing
20:38 Cutting Valve Seat
21:24 3-angle Valve Job
22:19 Porting and Polishing
24:16 Head Milling
25:00 Valve Grinding
25:35 Spring Pockets
27:04 Valve Train Assembly
30:22 Roller Rockers
32:26 Finding Top Dead Center
34:43 Set Lash
36:26 Carburetor Assembly
38:25 Top Plate

All Comments (21)
  • A little advice on checking the valves for leaks: DON'T use water. I've seen so many people do this thinking that because water doesn't drip out the intake or exhaust, that there's no leaks. The reason you don't use water is because you're putting water on previously oil coated surfaces that are polished, which makes them slightly hydrophobic. With the surface tension that water has on that hydrophobic surface, it can float above small gaps and not bleed through. Instead, use a solvent like acetone, xylene, or even gasoline. They have lower surface tension, and will actively leech through any gaps or leaks in the valves. Hope this helps.
  • @mattbrown2784
    Man! This is GREAT! I'm a 42 year old automotive master technician and I had NO IDEA they made sooo many parts for small engines! You just opened a whole new world up to me! Coolest thing I've seen in years!
  • @NoMurci
    im afraid you are now part of the automotive community and you may never stop making automotive content. Congratulations!
  • @GBiv78
    This is one of the best engine build videos I've ever watched. If a person can quickly and simply explain a complicated subject then they actually know what they're talking about. 10/10
  • @TheCHRISCaPWN
    Alright, I don't have interest in go karting,, and I haven't messed with engine building for almost 20 years, but I watched this entire video because I follow your interests that you share via videos and the podcast. You have gained so much knowledge from when you started this hobby, which is really awesome to see. Your knowledge and passion is clear in this video. Kudos, and keep it up!
  • @ga5743
    You are the cleanest mechanic I have ever seen. You rock Dave. “Some of us don’t have friends “ You always crack me up with your humor.
  • @slomorico8711
    When resurfacing a head with the flat glass/sandpaper technique, work the head in a figure 8 motion to avoid uneven material removal.
  • @jesse1136
    When i first came across this video and had little to no experience with building or modifying these (or any) engines, I never got past the first couple of minutes. Now that I have modified several engines and I'm always swapping or grinding something to pull that little bit extra power out of them, this video is way easier to keep up with. I like the fast pace you've managed while being as thorough as this video is. One of the best clone building videos on YouTube, and Im confident because I think I've seen most of them. Great job.
  • @JohnHeisz
    That brought back memories of my younger days messing around with cars. I did the heads on a 1990 Thunderbird I bought for $500 while I had it parked on a jobsite I was working at 20 years ago, and that was the last time I did any serious engine work. Now I'm thinking gas powered table saw... :) Awesome video, David!
  • Ive been telling people for years to flip these small engines to lubricate them before the first start Its good to see someone actually doing it
  • I was an engineering technician at Briggs & Stratton and worked on kart engines as well as the dragster engines. Fascinating, I never realized the fanatical customer base for these engines.
  • @arthurdavis1065
    When i raced box stock i took new head gaskets to a shop with a 300 ton press. I made 2 steel plates 2" thick , put the gaskets between them and reduced them to the minimum allowed thickness. It helped get that fraction of compression other builders didnt have. Every tiny bit helps as you know. Great video!
  • @jbratt
    I started racing when I was 15 sprint kart racing (short course asphalt). It was a great place to learn to drive. Then I got into road racing karts. It was huge in the 80s. Every Christmas our family would race at Daytona. The smallest class I would run still had 50 or 60 karts. Some classes (usually Yamaha) had over 100 entries. It was the most fun times I had with my dad, not just the racing but the hours of preparation we spent in the shop and the travel to the races. It was all good, and I learned so much. It was a great way to grow up. Thanks for bring back the memories, even though we ran two strokes 😜. Be safe and have fun 👍
  • Racers today do not know how lucky they are having videos like this. When I started in the 80s, racers would tell you a little & the rest was bullcrap. You had to get pieces from different racers and put them together to get the whole picture.
  • @hackdlc
    Watching from the perspective of someone who grew up on an automotive machine shop, looks like you did a great job. You can build a flow bench and actually play with porting a lot more. There is even a way to smoke it and actually see the flow characteristics and what a subtle change can do.
  • @ZombieZPandaZ
    My wife wants to get back into gokart racing, she would've been doing races and shit when she was a kid but her dad started making excuses to take her. I'm getting it soon to rebuild and get her back into it. Definitely saving this video, you did an amazing job describing everything and explaining exactly why you make the modifications and their purpose for you. 10\10 my guy!
  • @djosbun
    The best way to check for proper valve sealing is with a vacuum pump. It’s easy to make a plastic plate (add a quick disconnect to the plate) that bolts to the head and use a MityVac vacuum/pressure tester and you’re good to go.
  • @ixBATMANxi
    Man I have never been into kart racing but I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed this video. From the detailed explanations to your fantastic cinematography and production. Absolutely amazing job with this video. 👏
  • Pretty cool! I built Hi-Po 'Lawnmower' engines in the 70s. Back then, the trick was to use Tecumseh engines (Forced Oiling) and we even converted some from vertical to horizontal flow, shaved the heck outta the heads and changed the oiling pickup. Ignition timing was adjustable on those engines as well. We used 5 HP camshafts in 3.5 HP engines and used two McCulloch chainsaw carbs on an Aluminum manifold. We started these engines on Gasoline then once warmed up, they were run on Methanol-Acetone mixture. Pretty heady stuff for a 15-year-old with a very smart Power Technology teacher and a small dynamometer.
  • Idk how yt brought me here, but as a mechanic that worked in a bikeshop and tuned engines myself, I was very pleased to watch this. You explain things very well for starters with no needed fluff or editing. Great stuff! Hope you have a great day good sir.