World's Most "Localised" Surf Destinations...

Let me know your craziest localism stories!! I'm super overwhelmed with the response to this video; thank you so much for all your comments and stories; I've loved reading them! Please understand if I can't get back to all of you).

I’ve been surfing for over 30 years all over the world. My experience is that roughly half of surfers are really cool and the other half are complete assholes.

I have a technique I recommend. 1) grin at everyone like youre mental. 2) paddle up to every local and tell them how great they are. 3) thank everyone whenever you catch a wave. And tell them how grateful you are for their kindness. 4) start conversations with people even when they flatout ignore you and pretend youre not there, and tell them how much youre enjoying the people and the vibe.... After a while od this they start to either THINK youre insane and let you just keep going so you dont kill, putrify and eat them. Or they get seduced by your kindness and realize that being kind back actually feels good. Next thing you know the local charger is yelling at you, "Go! Go! Go!" (So you do) "Yesssssssss Maaaaaaaaannnnn!" Trust me. It works.

Reunion has had its fair share of problems from the real locals 🦈

The southern Mexico scene is interesting--they kept a lid on things for many years but then Rip Curl came with the Search contest (2011?) and suddenly it was on the map. The locals banded together and created a system where you needed a local guide to surf some of the breaks there. You could get a "waiver" and go without a guide by, for example, donating an old laptop to a local school, or fulfill an equivalent community need. The guides would coordinate and arrange it so that none of the breaks were overrun and the visiting surfers were spread out well. They would also regulate the lineups in what appeared to be a fair and reasonable manner. You had to be behaving quite poorly to be asked to leave, but it would happen. I've done a bunch of traveling and would normally be opposed to having a guide, however many of the breaks are remote and would be very hard to find without prior knowledge, and it was very well run--the vibe in the lineup was always chill, the usual tension between individual surfers was largely absent, because everyone knew where they stood and the guides all knew each other. Not sure if it's still working, but I was impressed. I got tons of waves that trip too.

Tamarind bay - Mauritius! White shorts..

Asia in general has the best vibes IMO Japan, Bali, Taiwan, Sri Lanka etc

One of the most welcoming vibes I ever got was at a fickle, semi-secret spot on the North Shore of Maui in the 90s. Clean bowling lefts, 4-6' Hawaiian, maybe 10-12 people out, even as a haole with minimal suntan and no friends there people were smiling, telling me "go, brah!" when a set came in. It was great.

when i first went to sw france i paddled out at a kind of unknown hidden spot, tiny waves, some teenager pointed for me to go back to hossegor, i said i'd just driven 2000 miles and laughed. but i did get out and it did freak me out a bit. Then a few days later i was across the border in the spanish basque and was really wary cos of being told to get out in france. Then twice what happened once at very friendly sized roca puta, was the locals could see i was holding back and waved me over to the spot so i could catch some waves. Couldn't believe it, it warmed my heart

Luanda Bay, CA was very localized when I would surf there in the early 80’s…Locals would rain down rocks from the 100’ bluff on surfers walking to the break and then vandalize their cars…classy group

Years ago fights were an everyday thing at my local break. I would get tons of waves while fights were going on. Good times.

This is why I prefer a nice hike in the mountains away from people vs surfing.

Your book arrives in the mail today! Stoked for the read 🤙

Thanks Dan great info!

I lived and surfed a particular stretch of coastline in South Africa in the late 70's. Each break was super localised, but everyone new each other, but still had to be respectful when visiting someone elses local break.

Always great info Dan 👍 love your vids 👍

I've surfed every spot he mentions here and never had a problem. Actually every time I paddle out anywhere, everyone goes straight to the beach and either starts filming me or they borrow some paper and start taking notes. It's awesome to be me.

I’ve been living in Japan and the locals are SO nice. Inside of the water and out. It makes it an enjoyable experience when everyone humbles their ego…

Interesting, thanks for sharing that.

A nearby wave where I was living in Japan had a sign spray painted "Rocals Only". I always got a kick out of that. But I did have a ridiculous run-in with "rocals" at a different secret spot.