Customers $1,200 Chainsaw Destroyed! Husqvarna 372 XP Rebuild

Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_a…

the best thing about these videos are how real a person you are!

That is a great idea to clean it up before you go to take it apart . bre The 2 cycle equipment repair queen 👑

I just love a woman like Chickie. So very smart. Great sense of humor. Beautiful. Hey where do we needy fellows find such a catch. Your spouse is one lucky guy !!!

This channel is worth watching even if you don't work on your own stuff, Very informative ane entertaining.

I’ve had very good success owning Husqvarna over the years , 3 of them and I never lost a days work ! Jonsered 2065 was and still is one of my favorites, terrific chainsaw ! You did well on the repair and I learned a few things watching you !

Being a Husqvarna Warranty repair person its up to me to determine if it was a mechanical failure or operator error. Which means i have to carefully check everything before and during disassembly . Which includes crankcase pressure vacuum testing. As always a great video 👍.

I have rebuilt alot of husky 372's that sounded way too lean on the test run. Those xtorq's were noted to wear the low end bearings or case pockets out then the seals would leak. The big end conrod was blue. Which may mean the cylinder went bad from running too lean from an air leak.

Tech Tip for getting the piston re-assembled to the conrod: Turn the saw perpendicular to your line of sight, so your able to "see through" the eye of the con rod. Assemble the wrist pin on the blind side of the piston so that you can see the alignment as you work. Leaving the piston dry until just before cylinder installation makes for easier handling. I like a little engine assembly lube on the wrist pin needle bearings but nothing wrong with a bit of engine oil instead.

Just a tip from an old aircraft mechanic. Save the old pin and taper one end on a lathe and this makes a great tool to line the piston pin hole with the rod hole. Save it for the next one.

Regarding an RV vs airline. Great idea there's lots of places to go, see and do. DO NOT purchase an RV. Doing so is a great way to lose money to depreciation and discounting when time to sell. Depending on level of use I recommend you either rent for each trip or lease one for a specific time. Our experience was buying a used 45' repo bus with 4 slides. Pretty much rebuilt all systems to keep it on the road. Sort of like a chain saw, it's great till it's not then your at mercy of a dealer/repair who has too many in que for repair and they over charge for simple repairs. Good luck. Thanks for your Channel. I think your video' are awesome. Merry Christmas

I did lots of those in 2005-2017 when I was a Husqvarna tech...have done a few since. I'm the first one to admit I despise doing pressure/leakdown tests, but a burned pro saw you are going to put back into service is the time to do one. That said, even if I KNOW the cause was straight-gas, I will usually put new crank seals in as insurance..don't want a comeback or to burn up a new $200 OEM P&C. I do remember, when the X-torqs were first introduced, we had a LOT of them come back burned up, almost new...lots of crank main bearing failures on those, which of course takes out the seals..if it's an X-Torq model, I definitely check the bearings and seals..also the x-torqs were known for having air leaks at the intake boot as well..all in all, I didn't care for the X-torq models, I'd much rather have an original design 372XP..the X-torq was basically a way to keep the popular 372 models in production, because the original design wouldn't meet EPA regs anymore..Everything on the X-torq on the top end was completely different/redesigned, and they have taller engine covers and handlebars than the OE version. Lots of customers didn't know the difference, and wondered why some of the parts from their old parts saws wouldn't fit their newer saws when they started to "Frankensaw" them...I always told them, if the compression release came up through the top cover, it's an X-torq...if the release is on the side of the cylinder, it's an original version 372. IMHO, they should have called the saw something else, like 374XTP, or something...but, they were trying to continue the popular 372XP saw without anyone noticing the changes, I suppose...

Thank you for your explanation on this. I’ve learned so much from watching your videos. They have saved me time, money and frustration, for sure. Glad you had a good time in Mexico.

As an arborist, I get so excited to see your chainsaw videos. I've run a lot of stihl and husqy and just bought my first echo, would love to see more saw rebuild content, especially tophandles and professional models.

Appreciate the in-depth disassembly and re-assembly. As far as RVs... If you could find one with a small 2-cycle engine, you could easily repair it if it were to break down. Though I doubt it would ever make it out of a driveway 🤣 Seriously, you might consider a pop-up, small tow-behind, or truck bed camper. We like all 3 options for different things. My overall favorite (in theory since we don't have one) is the truck-bed type with pull-out sides. Not the biggest, but seems like the most flexible.

I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who was pulled aside on suspicion of explosive coffee. I suppose I should have gone all Austin Powers on them and said "Back up, or I'll drop this coffee bean!"

Stihl silver tech here, typically with a scored failure, you do a pressure and vaccum test on unit before tear down to find possible other issues that caused the lean failure, crankseals, cylinder gasket, intake manifold, etc. Otherwise you could end up with same failure again if it was compromised. And after you install your new top end etc, you do another pressure and vaccum test to check your work. Also that saw sounded lean in the video, you could hear how it was idling down she is sucking air somewhere

Darlin I love the way you explain it all in English in detail. You diagnosed the problem, got the new parts and even mentioned the prices plus tax! Lol... All in like 5 minutes, love it:-) okay going to watch the rest of the video now...

I always use axle grease to hold a gasket in place as I put a head in place and I've never had any problems from the grease.

Welcome back! Thanks for sharing your amazing knowledge 🙏🏿🇺🇸