How To Clean Carbon Off Your Engine!

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Thanks Paul. I have a 2016 Mk7 GTI with 200,000 miles. The car is still running great and giving 35 mph highway. I change the oil according the service reminder, approximately evey 10,000 miles. I bought it new and only used premium fuel, oil and filter. I'm afraid it has the same carbon build up on the back of the valves. I've had the dealer do a carbon clean 3 time with crushed walnut shells. I'm starting to see the cold start misfire again so this will be the 4th cleaning. The first time it happened I got intermittent misfires. Everything checked out. It was the carbon. Thanks again to you and the humble mechanic. You-all helpled me to figure it out.

Adding a zip tie around the bundle at the chuck end and another at the other about 2" from the end works well for focused agitation. Learned this growing up cleaning lathes and mills in family machinery business. Hope this helps. Great video.

I installed a water/ methanol injection system to reduce knock and lower egts and it removed all the carbon build up. I was happy to see that it cleans as well as increase power substantially

I used oven cleaner, water, carb cleaner, a pick, a compressor airgun and lots of patience to clean the valves on my TDI. The oven cleaner worked FAR better than I had imagined, as a note of caution make sure you rotate the engine so that your valves are closed when spraying any liquid into that area otherwise you'll have a bad day when trying to start the engine.

Try cutting the blocks off the end of the zip ties, leaving them as long as possible, then put them through a piece of tubing maybe a few inches long, then put them in the drill. That would let you get them deep into the ports while keeping the drill away from the port, but they would not fly around so much because the tubing would keep them together.

I had to replace my intake manifold because of the flaps being broken and also cleaned the valves because of cold start misfires. The liquimoly valve clean is what I used along with some nylon brushes attached to my drill. It worked really well, just took a while.

We use the walnut media blast. After we get the cylinder to TDC, it helps to use a pick tool and a seal removal tool (I've never used this tool to remove seals. It looks like a tiny hockey stick) as the first step to get the majority of the carbon off. Then blast it with the walnut media. It is a night and day difference.

I think the zip tie thing would work better if you used the clip ends instead of the finger ends. The heavier ends and sharper edges would knock the carbon off quicker. Could then turn them around and do a "polish" with the finger end.

Been using the drill and zip ties for YEARS!! Then I vacuum the bits or carbon out followed up with carb cleaner and stuffing a paper towel in to soak up the carb cleaner and carbon residue before it dries out. It never looks perfect, but it's GOOD!!

On my 2018 VW Golf (Gen 3)TSI, change synthetic oil every 5K miles, use Top Tier gas, change filters regularly. This is the first time I have heard that these engines don't have big problems with carbon buildup. I had worried about this, but will continue to care for this engine. Thanks.

It would be really cool to see before and after dyno numbers on really gunked up valves.

"It's an ingenious solution to a problem that shouldn't exist in the first place." – James May

I cleaned my 3.2 Audi using seafoam or Berryman and brass wire brushes- the pipe cleaner type I’d bend in a hook to get the backside of the valves, and a thicker spinny type to fit in the drill. Worked perfect. Cost overall about $250 for gaskets, brushes, cleaners, and lollipop wrench for the crank, saves pulling the front end but you wouldn’t have that issue with 2.0s. Took about 6 hours to get spotless.

When I had my 2011 MK6 GTI, B12 and other strong cleaners weren’t available where I lived (Alberta, Canada). Canadian Tire just has your usual carb cleaners. Found that fresh oil soaked overnight (maybe only a few hours actually required) helped soften up the carbon, suspend it and also made it easier to clean everything. Used paper towel at first to soak up and remove everything and then compressed air to finish it off. Works very well and if any happens to get passed the valve stems or go down into the engine, I’m not worrying about it mixing with the existing engine oil and causing issues (as opposed to some strong cleaner seeping in).

You can do it with solvent, zip ties, and brushes. However, on heavily caked valves this will take AWHILE! If you have the means, invest in a media blaster or phone a friend. Did a gen 3 EA888A by hand and it took a few hours to make them like new. Soak, pick, scrub, rinse. Over and over and over for each cylinder.

I probably should do this on my '14 Cayman S with the 3.4 liter engine, but it runs perfect. I have a borescope at home, but getting it down that long winding intake looks like a huge hassle, not to mention you have to remove the rear interior just to get at the engine in the first place. Great video!

As mentioned in some of the other comments, before and after emission readings would be interesting to see, I don't doubt the air flow is ncreased and would help a better combustion; but the end result is always good to see.

Great video! In Europe, models from 2013-2017 have dual port from factory, avoiding this problem and better fueling for stage 3 tuning...

Easy Off oven cleaner dissolves carbon a lot, too! There is a warning on aluminum. I'd used wire brush or stiff nylon brush after 10min, let soak continue, repeat brushing advances carbon layer reduction. Then suction out & water rise, air pressure blast or air dry. If any thin layer still exists then dry brush,. The softened carbon will turn to dust.