How To Install Door Trim: Beginner to Level 10 Pro!

Been a carpenter for over fifty years and this is the first video that shows exactly how I do it. I even learned one new thing. Thanks. Your explanation skills are very good.

One more tip☝️ We get all our trim precut, some with miters already done, top part fit as is, sides are a bit to long, 2" or so.. So you set your top part where it should be. And the sides you turn upside down, putting the miter point to the floor, then you mark the top of your top piece on that side piece and cut it 90°. Turn it around and nail it in place. That way you have taken the 2 out of 3 measuring steps out of the equation 🎉

You're probably the experienced tradesman on YouTube who's the best at not taking the little steps for granted. Great job.

Nice work. I work on a production trim crew. Mostly new construction. Speed is crucial but we have to do nice work. Our system for doors is based on the door slabs and jambs being identical for a given size. They almost always are. We cut all the casing to the same dimensions. We gang cut the straight ends if it's MDF, probably 6 at a time. All miters are cut individually. Often we'll put a slight bit of torque on the saw to create a subtle angle to help the exposed edges of the miter touch each other more easily. We do everything from left to right, so the left leg goes on first, then the left side of the header, then the right side of the header and right leg. It's super fast cause we eyeball the reveals, no measuring and marking, and never any gaps to the flooring. Instead of shims we hold a thin, narrow putty knife behind the casing to help with alignment. Pin things up, slide out the knife and everything stays put. It's a super fast system, and we only get compliments, never complaints. Just our way. Having a holster for your wood glue bottle speeds things up as well.

CA glue with activator was a game changer for me too. After that, I would suggest a battery powered nailer. Not having to drag that hose around and mar other surfaces has been awesome!

You need to do a rolled miter. Put the shim on the saw then cut.

Love the line up with saw trick. I always struggle measuring from short side.

Level 11 results: on a big flat work table, arrange all 3 door trim pieces. Use 2-part ca spray glue to immediately bond the 45 degree angles exactly. The gaps will vanish. Carry the entire assembly over to your door frame and brad nail in place, shim between the wall and trim as necessary. Caulk joints to finish. Faster, easier, cleaner than futzing around adjusting and installing the 3 pieces individually.

I've been doing the CA glue method for a while, but you still gave me plenty of new things to learn. I definitely appreciate your attention to detail!

You’ve literally changed my life with one trick. I will never have to hold my tape on 1 inch while doing headers again. Good god, thank you so much

I've been enjoying watching finish carpentry videos. I'm in the process of replacing the door trim and baseboards. I took my game to lvl 100! They were pricey, but I purchased 2 Clam Miter Clamps. I actually cut, glue and nail my miters before installing it on the door. This way my miter joints are invisible after a light sand in paint.

Had to come back to this video to thank you!! I was working on casing around doors in our remodel this weekend, and I used the glue method on the miter joints. It worked PERFECTLY! This was my first time casing out doors myself and I've grown to really enjoy it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise!

The bloopers are my absolute favourite. Can you just make a compilation of these at the end of the year.

Yep used a combination square for years but few years ago 3d printed some reveal gauges.. Best thing ever for a trim carpenter!! I have 4 of em from 1/8th to 5/16th but mostly use the 1/4" and 3/16" mostly.. Quick tip at 4:47, instead of at the top, make the mark on the very bottom of the trim then line it up with a zero clearance insert.. Love your videos bro!! Keep em coming!!

I prefer spraying the activator on the join after its held in position. When its sprayed on the second surface it can react with the glue on contact and prevent the two pieces coming together completely. You have to hold for a little longer but you also as much adjustment time as required.

Nice tips. I glue and shim mine with pin nails to hold the corners to each other if they are close. If not, I use biscuits and glue... with shims as well to keep things solid on the wall. Painted trim is way easier to dress out than stained, since you can always finish it with caulk. ;)

tried the level 10 and got great results. Thanks for all your great videos!

I've been doing this work my entire life. Watching your content is awesome. We can always do better, and you certainly do a great job. Thanks for sharing your talents!

Nice Install! Method number 1 is the most common for sure especially if door jambs are not quite true. I have heard some people use biscuits to connect the mouldings together. I also know there is a very old fashioned method where they use a holesaw on the back of the trim to drill 1/2 way through between the interconnecting pieces and then use a metal ring in that recess to clamp the pieces tight together. I sometimes wonder whether both methods are overkill for most homes but I guess it depends how your house is built and the movement the walls and floor are subjected to. Usually glue and a brad nail seems to suffice on the mitres especially if your mouldings are MDF

You are without question, a skilled craftsman. Your video production skills are top-shelf, as well. Thank you for making these videos and sharing your knowledge.