The DOs and DON’Ts When Installing Polyurethane Suspension Bushings

I would be careful with using a bolt that has a shank that's the exact size of your tabs. Especially since the tabs will deform some when tightening. If you run out of threads your torque wrench will click off but the joint isn't necessary tight. The bolt sees a relatively low load because the bolt is tight(Joint stiffness ratio). If the bolt isn't able to provide enough preload to the inner sleeve then the bolt will see more load than it should. This is why you see bolt holes in tabs get egg shaped because the bolt wasn't tight enough. With that said if you use enough washers to make sure the nut has threads to grab on to then you are golden.

Thank you for never assuming that your audience knows what the heck they’re doing. And, more to the point, for never adopting a patronizing attitude when you set things straight. Your build videos have been and continue to be tremendously helpful. Thanks for keeping up the standards and the humanity.

Great information, thank you. The difference between these and OEM is on an OEM bushing the rubber is bonded to both the inner and outer barrel. The only movement is the flex of the rubber between the inner and outer metal barrels. That's why when changing things like control arms, you don't torque them up until they are on the ground (or ramps) under their own weight. That way, you are tightening them up in a position in the middle of the suspension's range of motion: In full compression they twist one way, in full droop, they twist the other way. If you tightened them up fully while unladen in the air at full droop, they would be much more likely to tear at full compression because now you are asking the rubber to twist in one direction to cover the full range of the suspension's motion. the take-away: Tighten them while on the ground or they will tear quickly.

What a fantastic video. No excess blabbering but straight to the point and everything presented in an easily understandable fashion. Subscribed immediately, just starting on the first project car where I have to rebuild the entire suspension and this kind of info is priceless. Thanks you!

I’ll classify this as one of the best YT vids out there. Actually very informative to people who don’t know, but also informs the people who THINK they know of proper techniques for safety and durability. Bravo bro

Dude! Fantastic video! I've replaced the suspension bushings on my whole truck myself, but I never before fully understood how the parts function as a set. I am so grateful for this video. You are an excellent teacher.

Just stumbled across the channel. Finally, somebody is making videos of the small details everyone else's leaves out that are so important. Major companies instructional videos always leave this out. They just say insert and tighten to spec without going into How it's supposed to function with the part that was just installed

Good video. I have fixed a few 'death wobble' trucks just by installing longer sleeves that lock down when the bolts are torqued. It's amazing how little movement in suspension will create such a large issue

More than I ever expected to learn in my lifetime when it comes to bushings. Enjoyed it for sure.

You never know everything my father use to tell me and try to learn something new every day and i just did!!! You are a really good teacher my hat off to you! Thank you for your education and my learning. Joe

This was an excellent video. Explaining not only what to do, but what not to do and why in an easy to understand manner without sounding patronizing. As others have said, that can be a tricky balance to find when teaching. Nicely done.

That was a really good video! I watched all 6 minutes and 52 seconds, thank you for making everything all nice and concise :D

Yessss! Now that was a great and well articulated run down of suspension bushings and components. Even if you’re not fabricating and all you’re doing is installing bolt on components like mid or long travel kits this is something you should be aware of. Make sure the manufacturer is giving you quality parts

This is a spot on video! Everything he said is correct. I’m talking as a tool&die maker with 50+ years experience. Really well done! Thank you!

Best teacher on the web man!!

A couple of additional comments - when a ZERK grease point is used, make sure the sleeve is welded in a position where the nipple is accessable with the suspension member fitted to the vehicle - sometimes you can correct this with a 90 or 135 fitting, but not always. If the fastener uses a castellated nut which takes a split pin, you can usually replace it with a stainless steel "R" clip - they won't rust in place and are easily removed, and they're re-useable. Depending on the specific application, it may be wise to use a longer bolt than actually required and drill the end, after the retaining nut, for an "R" clip - it doesn't often happen, but if for some reason the nut loosens, the clip will prevent it falling completely off and so prevent the bolt backing out. If you have access, you can do the same thing with bolts into captive nuts. Something I got from Justin* is to turn up some alloy spacers that are a close fit to the sleeves and use them instead of the 'plastic' insert when tacking parts together - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIGTNU6hG2Q *He also has a lot of sound advice to compliment this gentleman's advice - youtube.com/@TheFabricatorSeries/featured

I'm not expecting to be fabricating suspension components any time soon but this is just excellent automotive general knowledge regardless, along with a tonne more posted by experienced and knowledgeable folks in the comments. Great stuff, instant sub!

Very informative videos. I've done this for years and I know the tolerances need to be damn near perfect when dealing with rod ends and bushings. But, I like to see someone else out there that knows what they are doing also. Good videos man. Keep up the good teaching on all you do.

FINALLY, a person who KNOWS how to measure a BOLT. Fat too many mechanics tend to think the HEAD size is the size of the bolt and they usually get all bent out of shape when they ask for a 1/2" bolt when they are really after a 5/16" one. :face-green-smiling:

What a nice job of describing the correct way to mount a bushing assembly! The bushings I’m using specify white lithium grease in case anyone didn’t get that information with their bushings. I use drum brake bearing grease(stringy stiff grease) on the bolts and, a bit of red loctite in the nuts to make sure they stay put.